Stick Welding Settings Chart: Amperage, Polarity & Electrode Guide (Complete 2026 Reference)

Why a Stick Welding Settings Chart Is the Fastest Way to Better Welds

You strike the arc, and it dies. You try again, and the rod welds itself to the plate like it’s been superglued. So you crank the amps, strike again — and now you’re blowing holes straight through 1/8-inch steel. Sound familiar? Every stick welder has lived this loop, and the fix is almost never a mystery. It’s a number.

Two numbers, really: amperage and polarity. Get them in the right window for your electrode and your metal, and the arc hums, the slag curls, the bead stacks up clean. Miss the window, and you fight the rod all afternoon. A stick welding settings chart exists to close that gap — and this guide gives you both the quick-reference tables and the reasoning behind every figure, so you can stop guessing and start welding.

What a Stick Welding Settings Chart Actually Controls

SMAW (shielded metal arc welding), or “stick,” uses a consumable flux-coated electrode that supplies both the filler metal and its own shielding flux — no external gas bottle required. That simplicity is exactly why the process still rules job sites. OSHA lists electric arc welding as the most widely used type of fusion welding, and stick remains the go-to for pipe, structural steel, repair jobs, and field work.

A good chart maps several variables at once:

• Electrode type and classification — E6010, E6011, E6013, E7018, and so on
• Electrode diameter — 3/32, 1/8, 5/32 inch and beyond
• Amperage range — the current window for that rod at that size
• Polarity / current type — DCEP, DCEN, or AC
• Base metal thickness — thin sheet behaves nothing like 1/2-inch plate
• Welding position — flat, horizontal, vertical, overhead

Why Amperage Is the Number That Changes Everything

Amperage sets current density, and current density drives three things at once: penetration, melt-off rate, and deposition rate. Too low, and the arc stutters — the rod sticks, fusion is shallow, and you get a cold, lumpy bead. Too high, and you burn through thin metal, undercut the edges, and drag a rod that’s shedding flux faster than you can move. Amperage also governs arc stability: a rod running in its sweet spot starts reliably, doesn’t wander, and lets you control travel speed instead of fighting the machine. Miller’s electrode guidance puts it plainly: match the rod and thickness, then fine-tune.

Why Stick Still Dominates Field and Repair Work

Wind is the great equalizer outdoors. It blows away MIG shielding gas and forces you to stop, but it can’t strip the flux that boils off a stick electrode. That’s why stick survives on pipelines, bridges, and farm gates when gas-shielded processes pack up. It also shrugs off rust, mill scale, and paint far better than wire processes — forgiving of dirty metal in a way that gasless MIG welding can only partly match.

The tradeoff is that stick demands you read the arc. Unlike a wire feeder where one dial does most of the work, SMAW rewards a welder who understands settings. If you’re building those instincts from scratch, our guide to welding practice pairs well with the tables ahead. And if polarity confuses you, the same logic that governs stick applies across processes — see how it works in TIG welding polarity and flux core polarity.

By the end of this reference you’ll have straight amperage charts, position-specific tweaks, special-material settings, and a troubleshooting path that turns a bad bead into a diagnosis. Bookmark it, print it, tape it to your machine — you’ll reach for it far more often than you think.

How to Read a Stick Electrode Classification (Decoding E6010, E6011, E6013, E7018)

Every stick electrode is stamped with a short code, and that code is really a miniature spec sheet. Under the AWS A5.1 system for carbon steel electrodes, the number tells you strength, position, coating type, and — most importantly — the current and polarity the rod will actually run on. Learn to read it and you stop guessing why a rod welds beautifully on one machine and sputters on another. That single skill is the foundation of every good welding practice session, turning trial-and-error frustration into deliberate, repeatable results.

The Four-Part Code, Digit by Digit

The code reads left to right, and each chunk answers one practical question: how strong, where can you weld, and what machine setup the rod will accept. Take E7018 as the example and break it apart:

• E — means electrode. Simple enough.
• First two digits (70) — minimum tensile strength in ksi, or thousands of psi. E70 = 70,000 psi weld metal.
• Third digit (1) — position. 1 means all positions; 2 means flat and horizontal fillets only.
• Last two digits (18) — the flux coating type and the current/polarity the rod runs on. This is the part most welders ignore, and it is the one that matters most.

The Last Two Digits: Your Current and Polarity Key

That final pair of numbers encodes the coating, and the coating dictates polarity. Get it wrong and the arc wanders, sticks, or sputters no matter how you set the amps. If you want the deeper theory, our guide to TIG polarity explains why DCEN versus DCEP changes heat distribution, and the same logic applies here in reverse. Notice how E6012 prefers DCEN while E6013 runs on either polarity: same strength class, same soft character, very different arc behavior on one machine. The rod tells you what it needs; the quickest way to run one correctly is simply to give it that.

Common Electrodes and What They’re For

Here is the cheat sheet most welding shops keep taped inside a locker door:

E6010 and E6011 are the pipe and repair workhorses, with E6011 the choice when only AC is available. E6013 is the beginner-friendly all-rounder; our DCEN vs DCEP breakdown helps you see how polarity shifts behavior on rods that accept both. E7024 is the production rod — huge deposition, but it only likes flat and horizontal fillet work, so save it for the bench. E7018 is the structural king, but it demands proper storage — typically 250–300°F after opening — to stay genuinely low-hydrogen. When you reach for 3/16 E7018, that storage discipline matters even more.

E60XX vs E70XX in One Line

Use E60XX rods for everyday mild steel, and step up to E70XX for higher-strength structural work where the weld metal must match a stronger base metal. Miller’s electrode guide makes the same point: strength class and coating are two separate decisions. A rod that fights you is rarely a bad rod; it is usually the wrong current for the coating stamped on the flux. Read the code, match the last digits to your machine, and the rod will finally cooperate.

The Core Amperage Chart: Settings by Electrode Type and Diameter

Below is the quick-reference table most welders tape inside their lid. Find your rod, find its diameter, and start in the middle of the range. Then fine-tune from the bead. Treat every number here as a strong starting point, not a law — machines, joints, and rods all vary.

Figures are typical DC amperage ranges. A 3/16 in E7018 runs roughly 200–250 A and is generally limited to flat and horizontal positions. E7024 is a high-deposition drag rod — it runs hotter still and only flat/horizontal.

Short Note: Ranges are for flat and horizontal work. Drop about 15 percent for vertical, overhead, and root passes.

The Rule of Thumb That Beats the Chart

No chart handy? Multiply the electrode diameter in 32nds of an inch by 40. A 3/32 rod is 3 × 40 = 120 A; a 1/8 rod is 4 × 40 = 160 A. Treat that figure as a rough ceiling, then adjust ±10 to 15 percent for conditions: thick plate and long, heavy runs push you up, while thin sheet and out-of-position work pull you down. The rule works because amperage tracks the cross-sectional area of the rod and the volume of steel it must melt — a fatter rod needs more current to reach the same temperature. Learning to feel those adjustments is exactly why guided welding practice beats memorizing a single number.

Bigger Rods Carry More Heat and Deposit More Metal

Look down the table and the pattern is obvious: as diameter climbs, the amperage window climbs with it. Larger rods carry more current, melt faster, and lay down more metal per hour. The deposit jump is dramatic — a 1/8 in E7018 deposits about 2.6 lb/hr, while a 3/16 in E7018 roughly doubles that at about 5.2 lb/hr. Production shops reach for the fattest rod a joint will allow for exactly this reason.

Smaller rods are the opposite: lower heat input, finer control, and the sensible choice on thin material where a big rod would blow straight through. Run the largest electrode you can comfortably manage in a given position, since it is faster but puts more heat into the part.

Why Published Ranges Never Agree

Compare three brands of E7018 and you will see ranges shift by 10–20 A. That is completely normal. Each manufacturer tests on its own equipment under lab conditions, so coating formulation, plate thickness, joint fit-up, and travel speed all move the sweet spot. When in doubt, trust the data sheet on the package — see Lincoln’s guide to electrode classifications or Miller’s notes on common stick electrodes.

Electrode type matters as much as diameter. AC ranges often sit 5–15 A above DC for the same rod, because the arc restrikes every half-cycle and loses a little efficiency. Cellulosic E6010 and E6011 behave differently again from low-hydrogen E7018, which wants DCEP or AC. Compare a manufacturer sheet like the E7018 data sheet against your machine and you will spot the differences at once.

A Worked Example: 1/8 in E7018

Say you are welding quarter-inch mild steel flat with 1/8 in E7018 on DCEP. The chart says roughly 90–130 A. Start near the middle, around 110–115 A, then read the puddle: nudge up if the arc feels stiff and the weld toes roll back, and back off if you are digging a trench or spattering hard. Now switch to vertical-up on the same joint and dial back about 15 percent, landing near 95 A, so the puddle freezes before it drips. Same rod, same steel — only the position changed. That 15 percent haircut is your default for any out-of-position work.

Polarity and Current Type: DCEP vs DCEN vs AC for Stick Welding

Here is the setting most beginners skip, and it explains why one rod runs like a dream while the next sputters and sticks. Polarity is simply which lead goes where — but it decides where the heat lands, and that reshapes penetration, melt-off, and arc stability.

The Three Current Options

DCEN, or direct current electrode negative (once called straight polarity), runs the electrode negative and the work positive. Roughly two-thirds of the arc heat dumps into the electrode, so the rod burns off fast and penetration stays shallow. DCEP, direct current electrode positive (formerly reverse polarity), flips that balance — most of the heat drives into the workpiece for deeper penetration and a more aggressive, digging arc, while the electrode itself runs cooler.

AC alternates polarity, so the arc spends half its time in each mode, blending penetration with a self-cleaning action that helps lift surface oxides off the joint.

Why the Flux Coating Decides Your Polarity

You do not pick polarity for a stick rod — the coating does. The flux formulation is engineered around a specific current type, and the AWS electrode classification system ties each one straight to its permitted currents. Most rod makers, from Lincoln to Miller, publish that same data. Get it wrong and you get arc instability, spatter, and a rod that welds itself to the plate.

• E6010 — DCEP only. Run it on AC or DCEN and you will fight arc instability and sticking all day.
• E6011 — AC or DCEP. This is your go-to when only an AC machine is available.
• E6013 — AC, DCEP, or DCEN. The most forgiving of the group.
• E7018 — AC or DCEP. It is not a DCEN electrode, despite what a crusty old-timer may insist; our 3/16 E7018 amperage guide shows how that plays out on real joints.

What Makes AC So Useful

AC has two things going for it. Because it flips direction 100 or 120 times per second (depending on line frequency), the reversing field helps break up arc blow — that magnetic wandering that drags the arc sideways. It also runs happily on inexpensive transformer machines, which is why so many farm and garage welders are AC-only. For deeper penetration on thick steel, DCEP still wins; AC sits in the middle with balanced penetration and cleaning.

Arc blow gets worse in corners, along long seams, and near the ends of a plate. Because AC reverses constantly, the field never settles long enough to pull the arc far off course, which makes it the friendlier choice in those troublesome spots. DCEN, by contrast, concentrates heat and narrows the arc, so it suits thin material and rods that need a stable, gentle arc.

Setting Polarity on Your Machine

On a DC stick welder, the ground clamp and electrode holder connect to labeled positive and negative terminals. In DCEP, the electrode holder (the stinger) goes into positive and the work lead into negative; in DCEN, you swap them. Backward leads are one of the most common reasons a good rod behaves badly. Always disconnect power before swapping, and follow the OSHA welding safety standard for lead and connection requirements.

Polarity Selection Cheat Table

Related Reading

Polarity confuses welders across every process, not just stick. For a deeper look at how electrode positive and negative behave on a tungsten torch, see our guide to TIG welding polarity. If you run wire, our breakdown of polarity for flux core welding covers DCEN vs DCEP for self-shielded and gas-shielded wires. And when you are ready to burn rods, our welding practice guide will help you turn raw settings into real skill.

Matching Amperage to Base Metal Thickness and Joint Type

Amperage charts organized by electrode only tell half the story. The metal you are actually welding — its thickness, mass, and joint configuration — decides how much heat that rod needs to fuse properly. The same 1/8 inch 7018 that runs beautifully on quarter-inch plate will blow through 14-gauge sheet in a heartbeat. Read the workpiece first, then pick the rod.

The classic pairing rule is simple: material under 1/8 inch takes 1/16 to 3/32 inch electrodes, 1/8 to 1/4 inch steps up to 1/8 inch electrodes, and anything over 1/4 inch calls for 5/32 or 3/16 inch rod at noticeably higher amperage. These ranges are defined by AWS classification.

Thickness Bands at a Glance

• Thin sheet (16–12 gauge): 3/32 inch E6013 at roughly 60–90 A. Its easy restarts and softer arc suit thin, fit-up-sensitive work.
• 1/8 to 1/4 inch plate: 1/8 inch E7018 or E6011 at roughly 110–150 A — the everyday sweet spot. See our 3/16 E7018 amperage guide for the heavier end.
• 1/4 to 1/2 inch plate: 5/32 inch electrodes, higher amperage, and often a root pass followed by fill passes.
• 1/2 inch and thicker: 5/32 inch or larger E7018 at roughly 160–220 A, frequently with preheat and multi-pass technique.

Thicker plate holds heat longer, so the same rod can run at the lower end of its range once the part is warm.

How Joint Type Changes the Heat Requirement

A butt joint spreads heat across two faces, so it tolerates more amps. A T-fillet concentrates heat in a corner where the base metal pulls it away fast, so you often run slightly hotter to fuse the root. Lap joints behave similarly but trap slag near the toe — too much heat risks undercut; too little gives cold lap. Corner joints on thin stock are the most burn-through-prone, so drop the amps and increase travel speed.

Open-root butt joints are their own animal. With no backing, the arc must melt both edges without dropping through the gap. That demands a tight, consistent root gap — usually the electrode diameter — and stricter control of amperage, arc length, and travel speed. Yet the answer isn’t always “turn it down”: too little heat gives incomplete penetration. A technique guide like our welding practice article helps build that feel.

Preheat, Cold Weather, and Thick Sections

Thick sections and cold base metal pull heat from the puddle quickly, leading to fast cooling, hard microstructures, and cracking — especially with low-hydrogen E7018. A modest preheat slows the cooling rate. In cold shops or on restrained thick assemblies, warm the joint before striking the arc rather than cranking amperage, which causes distortion.

Managing Heat Input and Distortion

More heat input means more distortion, particularly on thin, restrained joints. Amperage is only one lever — travel speed, interpass temperature, and pass sequence matter just as much. Use the lowest amperage that still gives required penetration, alternate passes, and let thick parts cool between runs.

Fit-Up, Beveling, and Burn-Through

Poor fit-up forces you to chase a widening root gap, meaning more heat and higher burn-through risk — the same mechanism behind many overlap and cold-lap defects. Clean, square cuts, proper bevels (commonly 30–37.5 degrees per side on thick plate), and a consistent root gap keep amperage predictable. If the gap opens, lower your amperage and use a slight backstep or a third-hand tack to close it — a skill covered in our tube fitting fit-up guide.

Position Matters: Flat, Horizontal, Vertical, and Overhead Settings

Gravity doesn’t care how good your machine is. The moment you tip your stinger away from flat, molten metal starts trying to run downhill — and your settings have to fight it. That’s why the same rod that runs beautifully at 130 amps on a bench needs a very different dial when you’re welding a vertical joint overhead. Position, more than any other variable, dictates how hot you can run and which electrodes you should reach for. Get position and amperage marching together, and out-of-position welding stops being something to fear.

Flat (1G): The Hot, Fast, Forgiving Position

Flat is where the chart numbers are born. Gravity holds the puddle against the plate, the slag floats predictably to the top, and you can push higher amperage for deeper penetration and faster travel. This is the only position where big electrodes and iron-powder rods make real sense, and you can run the largest electrode your machine will push because the puddle has nowhere to fall. Run your rod toward the upper end of its recommended range — a 1/8 in E7018 is happy at 110–140 amps flat.

The catch is that flat habits don’t translate. Welders who only ever work on the table often get a rude shock the first time they go vertical, because they never learned to reduce heat.

Out-of-Position Rules: Drop the Amps

The single most useful number to remember: for out-of-position work, manufacturers commonly recommend decreasing the flat-position amperage by about 15 percent. If you run 120 amps flat, start around 100–105 vertical or overhead. That’s the ballpark for every position below.

Horizontal (2G): Control the Puddle

Horizontal welds sit on top of the joint, so the puddle wants to sag into the lower plate. Reduce amps slightly — often just 5–10 percent below flat — and keep a tight arc to freeze the puddle before it droops. Angle the electrode slightly uphill to help hold the metal, and travel steady. Don’t linger.

Vertical Up and Vertical Down (3G)

Vertical-up is the workhorse for structural work: lower amperage, a slight side-to-side weave, and “fast-freeze” electrodes that solidify before gravity wins. E6010 and E6011 cellulosic rods are the classic choice — their thin slag sets almost instantly, which makes them reliable vertical and overhead. With these rods you use a whipping motion, stepping up and pausing briefly so the fast-freeze slag can set before the next dab. With E7018, a subtle weave keeps the toes wet without letting the puddle run.

Vertical-down is a different animal — faster, shallower, and mostly for thin material and pipe roots, and it’s used mainly with cellulosic rods. E7018 is difficult to run vertical-down, so it’s normally confined to vertical-up work.

Overhead (4G): Lowest Amps, Short Arc

Overhead is the ultimate gravity test — the puddle is trying to drip into your collar. Drop amperage to the low end (the full ~15 percent cut), shorten your arc, and use a slight push angle so the force of the arc holds metal up. Fast-freeze rods again win here; keep the molten pool tiny and move steadily. On thicker plate this is where practice pays for itself. In overhead work, spatter falls toward your face, so proper eye and face protection stops being optional.

All-Position vs Flat-Only Electrodes

• All-position: E6010, E6011, E6013, and E7018 in standard diameters.
• Flat and horizontal fillet only: E7024 iron-powder electrodes — their heavy slag and high deposition are simply hard to control against gravity.
• Special case: E7018 is all-position, but its 3/16 in size is generally recommended only for flat and horizontal work.

Match the electrode to the position first, then dial the amperage. Get that order right and gravity becomes a partner instead of an opponent.

Settings for Special Materials: Stainless, Cast Iron, Pipe, and Hardfacing

Mild steel forgives a wide amperage window. Stainless, cast iron, pipe roots, and hardfacing do not. These jobs need electrode-specific settings that often sit well below the mild-steel numbers on a general chart — which is why you always consult the consumable data sheet instead of guessing.

Stainless Steel: Run Cool, Limit Dilution

Stainless electrodes such as E308L, E309L, and E316L melt at lower currents than carbon steel rods. Running hot increases dilution, pulls more base metal into the weld, and can draw chromium into the fume plume. Work on DCEN or DCEP and keep a short arc. DCEP gives deeper penetration and a broader cleaning action; DCEN runs cooler with less penetration, which many welders prefer on thin stainless.

Chromium in stainless steel converts to toxic hexavalent chromium Cr(VI) during welding. OSHA’s permissible exposure limit is 5 µg/m³ as an 8-hour time-weighted average under 29 CFR 1910.1026. The agency also requires mechanical ventilation when welding in a space under 10,000 cubic feet per welder or a room with a ceiling below 16 feet unless natural ventilation is adequate, per OSHA 1910.252. Cr(VI) is a confirmed carcinogen, so fume extraction at the arc is the practical answer.

Cast Iron: Low Amps, Short Beads, Peening

Cast iron is brittle and hates heat. Nickel-based electrodes such as ENi-Cl and ENi-CI lay down a soft, machinable deposit that absorbs stress instead of cracking. Use low amperage, short stringer beads, and peen each bead while it is still warm to relieve contraction stresses. V-groove the crack and stop-drill the ends first. Cool slowly — burying the part in dry sand or insulation prevents rapid cooling that triggers cracks.

Pipe Root and Hot Pass: Tight Control

E6010 on DCEP is the classic choice for open-root pipe passes — its deep, digging arc reliably penetrates the root face. Switch to E7018 for the hot pass once the root is in, and keep the arc tight; long arcs cause porosity and lack of fusion. Root passes demand tight arc control because the arc force carries the puddle through the bevel; a wandering arc leaves cold lap.

Hardfacing: Low Amps, Low Dilution

Hardfacing electrodes build a wear-resistant surface, and dilution is the enemy — too much current mixes the base metal into the overlay and softens it. Run the lowest amperage that gives a stable arc, use a slight drag angle, and limit build-up to two or three layers. Because dilution rises sharply with current, check the manufacturer’s dilution curves when the wear plate matters.

These special-material jobs also demand stronger fume control. Arc welding fume production runs highest for FCAW, then SMAW, then GMAW per OSHA guidance, so stick welding on stainless needs real ventilation, not just an open door. If you are setting up a dedicated space, plan airflow with our guide to building a safe welding shop, and reinforce fundamentals with structured welding practice. And remember: dissimilar-metal joints need electrode-specific current windows well below mild-steel values.

Troubleshooting: Reading the Bead to Fix Amperage, Polarity, and Arc Problems

Your settings chart gets you close, but the bead does the fine-tuning. A stick welder’s real feedback loop lives in the puddle and the cooled weld. Learn to read both and you can diagnose most arc problems in seconds — often before the rod has even cooled.

Too Cold vs. Too Hot: The Two Ends of the Dial

A high, narrow, crowned bead with poor side-wall fusion and trapped slag usually means amperage is too low or travel speed is too slow. The arc lacks the heat to dig in, so metal piles up instead of wetting the toes. At the other extreme, undercut, excessive spatter, and burn-through typically signal amperage that is too high or arc length that is too long. The fix is rarely more rod angle — it’s usually fewer amps or a shorter arc.

Electrode Sticking and Hard Starting

The rod sticks when amps are too low for its diameter, when the wrong polarity starves the arc, or when you jab it into the plate. E6010 loves DCEP; run it on DCEN and it stutters. Strike like a match — a light drag, not a stab — then hold a tight arc. On AC machines, add a touch of amperage to offset the sine-wave dead time. Struggling here is normal early on, which is why structured welding practice pays off fast.

Arc Blow: Magnetic Deflection

Arc blow is the deflection of the arc by magnetic fields, and it shows up as wandering, spatter-heavy welds near the end of a joint. It’s often reduced by switching from DC to AC, relocating the work clamp, or welding toward the ground connection. If you’re locked to DC, move the clamp closer and shorten the arc to regain control. For a deeper look at how current direction shapes the arc, see our polarity guide.

Porosity, Slag, and Undercut

Porosity frequently comes from a long arc, dirty or oily base metal, or a damp electrode rather than from amperage alone. Clean to bright metal, tighten the arc, and dry your rods. Slag inclusions hide in undercut toes and cold lap — grind them out and re-weld rather than painting over the defect. Undercut at the edges points to hot amps, a long arc, or travel that’s too fast.

Wet Rods and E7018: The Silent Weld Killer

E7018 exposed to atmosphere absorbs moisture, and that hydrogen migrates into the weld to cause porosity and cracking. Low-hydrogen electrodes are typically stored at 250–300°F after opening to keep them dry — a rod oven is not optional gear in a professional shop. A damp rod can ruin an otherwise perfect setup, so treat storage as part of your settings. When in doubt on size-specific numbers, see our 3/16 E7018 amperage guide. And remember: chromium (VI) fume from stainless electrodes is regulated by OSHA because it can damage eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs and cause cancer.

Symptom → Cause → Fix Table

Read the bead after every pass. It is the cheapest quality-control tool you own.

Machine Setup, Common Mistakes, and Pro Tips for Dialing In Settings

A stick welding settings chart gets you close, but your machine has to cooperate. The amperage dial sits alongside several other controls that quietly change how the arc behaves — and ignoring them is why two welders using identical numbers can get wildly different beads.

The Machine Controls That Shape Your Amperage

• Amperage dial: Sets your target current, but on many machines it is approximate, not exact.
• Open-circuit voltage (OCV): The voltage before the arc starts. It must be high enough to strike and hold an arc; typical SMAW machines run roughly 50–80 V OCV.
• Arc force / dig: Temporarily raises current as arc length shortens, preventing the rod from sticking during low-amperage and out-of-position work.
• Hot start: Delivers a short burst of extra current so the electrode strikes more easily and sticks less at the start of a bead.
• AC/DC selector: Chooses your current type, which pairs with polarity to control penetration and smoothness.
• Duty cycle: Defines how long the machine can run at a given amperage before it must cool.

Duty cycle is the one people overlook most. Run above it and the machine thermally shuts down mid-bead, then returns with weak, inconsistent output — symptoms you might wrongly blame on your settings.

Read your machine’s duty-cycle spec before a long job. A “60% at 150 A” rating means six minutes of arc time for every ten, with four minutes of cooling at that output. Rods carry their own limits, so check manufacturer data — the Harris E7018 datasheet, for instance — before you push a rod to the top of its range.

Common Mistakes That Wreck Good Settings

1. Wrong polarity: Running DCEN when your rod calls for DCEP flips penetration and bead shape. Double-check before you weld.
2. Ignoring electrode storage: E7018 absorbs moisture and runs poorly; low-hydrogen rods need protection.
3. Running above duty cycle: Causes thermal shutdown and inconsistent output.
4. Rod too large for the material: A fat rod on thin steel forces you to overheat the base metal.
5. Chasing the puddle with travel speed: If the bead is too hot or cold, fix the amperage, not your hand speed.
6. Never testing on scrap: Skipping a practice pass turns your workpiece into the experiment.

Pro Tips for Dialing In Fast

Build a habit of running a test coupon before every critical weld. Keep a scrap plate of the same thickness as your work nearby — steel thick enough to mimic the real joint — and tune the dial on it first. Note the settings that work on a notepad or the machine itself; a simple log saves you from re-discovering the same number next month.

If you regularly run E7018, buy a rod oven. It keeps electrodes dry and predictable, which is just as important as hitting the right amps. Running a specific size? Our 3/16 E7018 amperage, polarity, and technique guide spells out exact ranges. And remember: machine dials are often approximate, so verify with a test bead rather than trusting the number. Treat your practice time seriously — our welding practice guide shows how deliberate reps turn settings into instinct, and if you are crossing over from wire feed, the beginner wire welder guide helps you translate the same dialing principles.

Safety belongs in setup too. Arc welding requires a helmet or hand shield for every arc weld, and OSHA points to ANSI Z49.1 for safe practice in welding, cutting, and allied processes. A tidy, well-planned booth also makes settings easier to read and adjust; see our guide to planning and setting up a safe shop.

Stick vs MIG vs TIG vs Flux-Core: How Settings Charts Compare

You can now dial in amperage, polarity, and rod choice for almost any stick job. But stick is only one of four common arc processes, and each one hands you a different set of dials. Knowing those differences tells you when your stick settings chart is the right tool — and when another process would genuinely serve you better.

The Dials Each Process Controls

Stick (SMAW) is the simplest to set and the hardest to master. You control amperage and polarity, and that is largely it; the rest comes from rod selection and travel speed. SMAW is limited to consumable electrodes covered in flux, so the coating itself provides the shielding. Electrodes arrive in fixed lengths and must be replaced as they burn down, which is why stick welders constantly stop, re-strike, and restart.

MIG (GMAW) flips that around. It uses a continuously fed wire with external shielding gas, so you tune voltage, wire feed speed, and gas flow. TIG (GTAW) relies on a non-consumable tungsten electrode plus a separate filler rod, so you manage amperage, polarity, and gas — often with a foot pedal for fine control. Flux-cored (FCAW) sits neatly between stick and MIG: you set wire feed speed, voltage, and polarity, and the flux core can shield the arc on its own.

Side-by-Side Comparison

That shielding difference matters. MIG and TIG depend on external gas that wind can disperse, while stick’s flux shielding makes SMAW far more reliable outdoors and on rusty, dirty, or painted steel. There is a cost, though: SMAW typically leaves more cleanup than MIG, because every pass drops slag you have to chip and brush before the next bead goes down.

Notice how the number of variables grows as you move from stick toward MIG and TIG. More dials mean more control, but also more that can drift out of tune. A synergic MIG machine hides much of that math behind preset programs, while a basic stick machine gives you one amperage knob and a polarity swap.

Fume exposure is another factor worth knowing. Self-shielded flux-cored welding can run without external gas, but OSHA notes it can generate the highest fume levels of the common arc processes. By contrast, submerged arc welding is exempt from the helmet and hand-shield requirement because its arc is buried under flux — a detail covered in our guide to robotic submerged arc welding.

When to Stick With Stick

Stick’s lower deposition rate and slag cleanup are real costs, and if you are chasing speed in a shop, those add up fast. But stick’s portability, low equipment cost, and appetite for dirty metal keep it unmatched for field repair, farm and ranch work, pipelines, and structural steel. A small engine-driven machine and a handful of rods will weld anywhere a truck can reach.

If your work moves indoors onto clean material, it pays to branch out. Our guides to gasless MIG and flux-cored welding, TIG polarity, and DC welding aluminium show exactly what changes in the dials. Whichever process you run, steady hands beat fancy charts — deliberate welding practice is what turns settings into strong welds.

Frequently Asked Questions

What amperage should I use for 1/8 inch 7018?

For 1/8 inch E7018, most manufacturers list roughly 90–130 A on DCEP or AC in the flat position. For vertical or overhead work, dial back about 15 percent, landing near 80–110 A where the puddle stays controllable. Always confirm with your specific consumable data sheet, since brands vary.

Does 7018 need DCEP or AC?

E7018 is designed to run on either DCEP (electrode positive) or AC — never DCEN. DCEP generally gives smoother arc characteristics and better penetration, while AC is convenient on transformer machines and helps reduce arc blow. Using DCEN will typically cause a rough, unstable arc.

Can I run 6010 on AC?

No. E6010 is a cellulosic, sodium-coated electrode designed for DC electrode positive (DCEP) only. On AC or DCEN it tends to stick, sputter, and lose its deep-penetrating arc. If you only have an AC machine, choose E6011 instead, which is the AC-capable version of the same cellulosic family.

What is a good rule of thumb for stick welding amperage?

A widely used starting rule is to multiply the electrode diameter in 32nds of an inch by 40. So a 1/8 inch rod (4/32 in) starts near 160 A as a ceiling, and you fine-tune down 10–15 percent based on thickness and position. Treat it as a starting window, not a fixed number, and verify on scrap.

Why does my stick electrode keep sticking to the metal?

The most common causes are amperage that is too low, the wrong polarity for that electrode, or dragging the arc too short before the puddle forms. Increase the amperage slightly, confirm the rod’s required polarity, and use a hot start or a light scratching strike to establish the arc before settling in.

How do I stop arc blow when stick welding?

Arc blow is magnetic deflection of the arc, usually near the ends of a weld or around corners. Switching from DC to AC, moving the ground clamp away from the weld zone, wrapping the work lead around the part, or reducing amperage and arc length can all help. Welding toward the ground connection is another common fix.

Do I need a rod oven for 7018?

For code-quality or critical structural work, yes. E7018 is a low-hydrogen electrode that absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause porosity and hydrogen-induced cracking. After opening, low-hydrogen rods are typically stored in a holding oven around 250–300°F, and rods left out for extended periods should be reconditioned per the manufacturer’s instructions.

What amperage range works for thin sheet metal with a stick welder?

Thin sheet is challenging for stick because heat input is high. Use a small rod like 3/32 inch or 1/16 inch, typically an E6013, at roughly 40–90 A, and move quickly with a short arc. Practicing on scrap of the same gauge is essential before trying a real part.

Is stick welding dangerous in terms of fumes?

All arc welding produces fume, and stick welding generates a significant amount because the flux coating creates smoke. Stainless and chrome-containing electrodes produce hexavalent chromium, which OSHA limits to a permissible exposure limit of 5 µg/m³ as an 8-hour time-weighted average. Use ventilation, position your head out of the plume, and use respiratory protection when exposures cannot otherwise be controlled.

How do I set up a stick welder for a first weld?

Select a rod that matches your current (for example E6011 on AC or E7018 on DCEP), set amperage within the manufacturer’s range for that diameter, confirm polarity, clamp your ground to clean bare metal, and run a test bead on scrap of the same thickness. Adjust amperage up or down based on the bead shape before committing to the actual joint.

Authoritative Sources & Further Reading

• https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-29/subtitle-B/chapter-XVII/part-1910/subpart-Q/section-1910.252
• https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/regulations/standardnumber/1910.252
• https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/publications/OSHA_FS-3647_WELDING.pdf
• https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/publications/OSHA-3373-HEXAVALENT-CHROMIUM.pdf
• https://www.osha.gov/hexavalent-chromium
• https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/88-110/pdfs/88-110.pdf
• https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en/welding-and-cutting-resource-center/process-and-theory/aws-classifications
• https://www.millerwelds.com/en-us/resources/knowledge-hub/stick-welding/stuck-on-stick-easy-answers-to-not-so-simple-questions-about-common-electrodes
• https://www.pinnaclealloys.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/E7018-3.18.20.pdf
• https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/hpg-na-7018
• https://ch-delivery.lincolnelectric.com/api/public/content/9bc15f1bf80144498dd79e482bc5da75?v=e1ce6402
• https://pubs.aws.org/p/2292/a518a518m2025-specification-for-carbon-steel-electrodes-and-rods-for-gas-shielded-arc-welding