Arc Welding Stick Chart: The Complete Amperage, Rod Size & Metal Thickness Guide

A farm shop owner once told me he burned through two boxes of 1/8-inch 6013 rods, blew holes through a 14-gauge fender, and still couldn’t figure out why his beads looked like frozen porridge. His machine was fine, his hands were steady — he just never had the right stick welding chart taped to the wall. That five-minute lookup would have saved him an afternoon of grinding and a healthy dose of frustration.

Why Every Stick Welder Needs an Arc Welding Stick Chart

The farm shop story at the top of this article isn’t an oddity. It’s the single most common failure pattern in stick welding: good machine, decent hands, wrong number on the dial. The fix is almost embarrassingly simple. A stick welding chart is a one-page reference that tells you which electrode to load, how many amps to dial in, and whether that combination will actually work on the metal sitting in front of you. Tape it inside your hood box or above the machine, and half your troubleshooting disappears before you strike an arc.

What Exactly Is an Arc Welding Stick Chart?

Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), commonly called stick welding, remains one of the most widely used arc welding processes in construction, repair and pipeline work because of its portability and simplicity. No gas bottle to drag up a ladder, no wire spool to snag, just a holder, a cable and a box of consumable electrodes. That simplicity has a catch: the operator makes every parameter decision manually.

An arc welding stick chart compresses those decisions into a readable grid. A complete one answers five questions at a glance:

• Electrode class — E6013, E7018 and friends, decoded from the AWS designation.
• Electrode diameter — 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16 and larger.
• Amperage range — the usable window for that rod at that size.
• Polarity — DCEN, DCEP or AC, which the electrode coating dictates.
• Plate thickness and welding position — the job conditions that shift the setting up or down.

If a chart gives you those five data points, you can walk up to unfamiliar steel and make a defensible setup choice in under a minute. For the underlying science behind electrode selection, our guide on what electrodes are in welding breaks down coatings, alloy cores and polarity in more depth.

Why Amperage Is the Setting That Matters Most

Travel speed, arc length, rod angle and weave all influence the bead — but none of them can rescue a wrong amperage. Amperage controls heat input, and heat input controls penetration, deposition rate and whether the base metal melts at all.

The correct amperage setting depends primarily on electrode diameter and electrode type. Manufacturers print the operating range on the electrode box, and reputable welding equipment makers publish matching tables; Miller Electric’s electrode selection guide is a solid primary reference, and Baker’s Gas publishes a full electrode amperage chart covering common diameters.

The spread is wider than most beginners expect. A 1/8 in. E6010 rod typically runs well at 75–130 amps, while a 5/32 in. E7018 can run up to roughly 220 amps. That’s nearly a threefold difference on machines many shops consider “the same welder.”

Wrong amperage is the root cause of most beginner complaints: cold lap, burn-through, excessive spatter, and hard-to-remove slag. Dial in too low and the arc stutters, the rod sticks, and the metal never wets out — that’s the “frozen porridge” look. Too high and you blow through thin plate, undercut the edges, and scorch the flux so slag peels in chunks instead of lifting in a clean sheet. Our deep dive on 3/32 E7018 amperage, polarity and technique shows how narrow the ideal window gets on small-diameter rods.

What the Search Intent Behind “Arc Welding Stick Chart” Really Means

People typing this keyword are rarely browsing. They’re standing next to a machine with a job on the table, looking for a number they can trust right now. Sometimes they’re a beginner trying to understand why last week’s beads looked wrong. Sometimes they’re an experienced welder switching from a 6013 rod to a 7018 and wanting the polarity and amp change without digging through a textbook. That’s why the strongest charts are laid out as lookup tables rather than prose.

The rest of this article works like that chart, but expanded. We decode AWS electrode numbering so the digits stop being alphabet soup, publish the master amperage and thickness tables, go rod by rod through the 60,000 psi and 70,000 psi families, cover joint fit-up and diameter selection, translate chart numbers into actual machine dial settings, list the mistakes that send people back to the grinder, compare stick against MIG and TIG charts, and close with safety and inspection practice grounded in OSHA and AWS/ANSI Z49.1 guidance.

One honest boundary before we start: a chart is a reference, not a substitute for skill. If you’re wondering whether stick is even the right process for you, is stick welding hard gives a straight answer about the learning curve and how many hours it realistically takes to become competent.

The payoff: a five-minute lookup replaces an afternoon of grinding. Let’s build that lookup.

How to Read the AWS Electrode Classification System (E6010, E7018 Decoded)

Before you can get real value out of any arc welding stick chart, you need to crack the code printed on the electrode box. That string of characters — E6013, E7018, E7024 — is not a part number or a brand gimmick. It is a standardized classification from the American Welding Society, and it tells you almost everything you need to know about tensile strength, welding position, coating type, and compatible current. Once you can decode it in five seconds, you will never again grab the wrong rod off the rack at the supply house.

The Structure: What Each Digit Means

Take the electrode E7018 and read it digit by digit:

• E — stands for “electrode.” Simple as that. It tells you this is a stick electrode, not a filler wire classification.
• 70 (first two digits) — the minimum tensile strength of the deposited weld metal in thousands of pounds per square inch. So E7018 produces weld metal that will hold at least 70,000 psi. An E6010 delivers 60,000 psi. And the code extends beyond two digits: a five-digit code like E11018 means 110,000 psi minimum tensile strength, used on high-strength low-alloy steels.
• 1 (third digit) — the welding position. 1 = all positions (flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead). 2 = flat and horizontal only. 3 = flat, horizontal, vertical-down and overhead — but not vertical-up.
• 8 (fourth digit) — the coating type and the current it is designed for. This digit is the trickiest, and it drives your machine setup.

For the fourth digit, the common designations look like this:

• 0 — cellulose sodium coating, designed for DC reverse polarity (DCEP).
• 1 — cellulose potassium coating, usable on AC or DCEP.
• 2 — titania (rutile) sodium coating.
• 3 — titania potassium coating, which helps stabilize the arc on AC.
• 4 — iron powder titania coating, which boosts deposition rate.
• 5 — low hydrogen sodium coating, DC only.
• 6 — low hydrogen potassium coating, AC or DC.
• 8 — iron powder low hydrogen coating (calcium carbonate/fluorspar based), usable on AC, DCSP or DCRP.

The Common Electrodes Decoded

For a deeper dive into what each of these rods actually does in the arc, our guide to electrodes in welding — types, numbers, polarity and how to choose covers the full family in detail.

Why the Coating Digits Matter at the Machine

Coating chemistry is not trivia — it dictates arc behavior. Cellulose coatings (the “0” and “1” endings) burn with a forceful, deep-penetrating arc and a lot of spatter and gas volume. That is why Miller’s electrode guides emphasize that E6010 is a DC-straight-polarity rod: hooking it to DCEP on many machines produces a wildly unstable arc. Low-hydrogen coatings (the “5”, “6” and “8” endings) do the opposite — they stabilize the arc and minimize hydrogen input, which is why they dominate structural and code work governed by procedures like those in our pipe welding procedures guide.

One last decoding tip: when you see E7018 in a welding procedure specification, it usually carries an optional suffix such as E7018-1 or E7018-H4R. The “-1” means improved low-temperature notch toughness, “H4” means a maximum of 4 milliliters of hydrogen per 100 grams of deposited metal, and “R” means the rod is packaged in a sealed, moisture-resistant wrapper. Those suffixes matter on critical work, and they are the reason low-hydrogen rods are baked and stored in rod ovens — something we will cover in the troubleshooting section later in this article.

The Master Arc Welding Stick Chart: Amperage by Rod Size and Metal Thickness

Every welding truck, shop wall, and school booth eventually gets one: a laminated card that answers two questions in under five seconds. What size rod am I holding, and what do I set the machine to? A useful arc welding stick chart does more than list numbers, though. It cross-references electrode class, electrode diameter, amperage range, polarity, plate thickness, and welding position so you can go from a stack of plate to a dial setting without guessing. This is the reference section the rest of the article keeps pointing back to, so keep it bookmarked.

General Starting Amperage by Electrode Diameter

If you remember nothing else from this guide, remember this baseline table. These ranges cover the common mild-steel electrodes found in most shops and represent a safe starting window before you fine-tune for brand, position, and machine.

The catch is that different rods fill that window differently. Published procedures from manufacturers such as Baker’s Gas electrode amperage chart show E6010 running cooler than the generic column above: 3/32 in. at 40–70 A, 1/8 in. at 75–130 A, 5/32 in. at 90–175 A, and 3/16 in. at 140–225 A. E6011 shifts again with polarity, and on AC it runs slightly higher than DC in some published ranges (1/8 in. AC at 75–120 A versus DC at 70–110 A). Always read the data sheet for the exact rod in your hand. If you need a refresher on what those digits mean, start with What Are Electrodes in Welding? Types, Numbers, Polarity & How to Choose.

Rod-to-Plate Thickness Matching Chart

Diameter is only half the decision. Match the rod to the metal and the amperage range narrows itself:

Sheet metal is where this chart earns its keep. A 1/8 in. rod at 130 A will blow straight through 14-gauge fender steel, which is why thin work calls for a 3/32 in. rod at the low end of the range and careful travel speed. We go deeper into that in Stick Welding Sheet Metal: Amperage, Rod Choice, and Blow-Through Prevention, and our Stick Welding Thin Metal guide covers burn-through fixes in detail.

Why These Numbers Are Starting Points, Not Commandments

Three variables move every value on this page. Brand and batch matter: a Lincoln data sheet and a Hobart sheet can differ by 10–20 A on the same rod diameter, which is why Hobart’s published 7018 ranges are worth checking against ours. Position matters too: overhead and vertical-up work generally wants 10–15% less amperage than flat, as covered in our Overhead Stick Welding guide. Machine calibration matters most of all: a dial marked 120 may deliver 105 on a tired transformer machine, and an inverter’s digital readout may be closer to true. That is the exact reason 3/32 E7018 Amperage and 5/32 E7018 Amperage both recommend running a test bead before committing to the joint, a technique we will set up properly in the polarity section. As Miller Electric’s electrode selection guide puts it, material, thickness, position, and current type all have to agree before the amperage number means anything.

Print the two tables, tape them next to your machine, and treat every setting as a hypothesis you confirm with a test bead on scrap of the same thickness.

Rod-by-Rod Deep Dive: E6010, E6011, E6012 and E6013 Characteristics and Settings

The 60,000 psi family is where most welders live. These four electrodes cover the bulk of farm, garage, maintenance and light-fabrication work, and they behave so differently that swapping a 6010 for a 6013 without changing technique is a fast way to ruin a bead. Here is what each rod actually does.

E6010: The Deep-Penetrating DC Workhorse

E6010 is a DC-only rod with a forceful arc that digs through rust, mill scale, oil, paint and light dirt. That self-cleaning aggression is why pipeline welders trust it for root passes, where full penetration on a beveled joint is non-negotiable. For how that plays out in real procedure work, our pipe welding procedures guide walks through root, hot, fill and cap passes.

According to Miller Electric’s electrode selection guide, E6010 runs on DC only and delivers deep penetration with a fast-freeze puddle. Typical settings:

The trade-off: E6010 freezes fast and runs a tight arc. It rewards a whipping motion — pull back to let the puddle freeze, push forward to tie in — and punishes anyone who drags slowly. Ropey, cold-looking beads usually mean you are dragging a rod that wants to be whipped, or running at the bottom of the range. See our push or pull stick welding guide for the full technique breakdown.

E6011: The Same Arc, But on AC

E6011 is essentially E6010’s AC-capable sibling: the same digging, dirty-metal tolerance for machines that cannot run DC. That makes it the default maintenance and repair rod for old buzz boxes and portable AC engine-driven units found on farms and job sites.

Amperage mirrors E6010 closely: 40–80 A for 3/32 in., 75–130 A for 1/8 in., and 110–165 A for 5/32 in., with the upper half of the range preferred on AC. Because the arc runs a little rougher than E6010, E6011 also bridges slightly wider gaps — handy on field repairs where fit-up is a wish rather than a plan.

E6012: The Gap-Bridging Fill Rod

E6012 flips the script: shallower penetration, a heavier deposited bead and excellent gap-bridging ability. It is the classic root-fill and cover rod on clean steel, and a favorite for poor-fit-up material where a hot rod would drop straight through. The catch is the slag — E6012 produces a dense, stubborn crust that needs real chipping and wire-wheeling before the next pass.

• 3/32 in.: 35–70 A
• 1/8 in.: 60–110 A
• 5/32 in.: 85–140 A

Run it DCEN (straight). Drag it, do not whip it, and expect to clean more than you would with the other three.

E6013: The Beginner’s Best Friend

E6013 lays down a soft, quiet arc with minimal spatter, moderate penetration and slag that flakes off almost by itself. On clean, new sheet metal and wide root openings it is genuinely the easiest rod to strike and hold, which is why most welding schools start students on it. If thin material is your main concern, pair these numbers with the advice in our stick welding sheet metal guide.

E6013 runs on AC, DCEP or DCEN, which makes it universal on almost any machine. Drag it at a moderate travel speed. Its weakness is also its strength: that soft arc will not save you from contamination, so stick to clean, ground-back metal.

Choosing Between the Four

Ask three questions: is the metal dirty, is my power source AC or DC, and what position am I welding in? Dirty metal plus DC points to E6010; dirty metal plus AC points to E6011; clean metal needing penetration control points to E6013; bad fit-up needing fill points to E6012. Remember that all four carry roughly 60,000 psi tensile strength, well below the 70,000 psi rods we cover next. Curious what those numbers mean? Start with what electrodes in welding actually are, and if you are still deciding whether stick is for you, our honest beginner’s guide to stick welding covers the learning curve.

Rod-by-Rod Deep Dive: E7014, E7018 and E7024 for Structural and Heavy Work

If the 60,000 psi rods are the farmers and hobbyists of the electrode world, the 70,000 psi family builds bridges, buildings, pressure vessels and heavy equipment. Once your chart moves past E6013 territory and into 7014, 7018 and 7024, you are no longer just making beads stick together — you are making welds that codes, inspectors and structural engineers will accept. That shift changes how you read the chart, how you store the rods, and how you hold the arc.

What “Low Hydrogen” Actually Means (and Why Fabricators Obsess Over It)

In the AWS A5.1 numbering system, electrode classifications that end in 15, 16 or 18 — E7015, E7016, E7018 — share one defining trait: a low-hydrogen covering. Hydrogen is the quiet saboteur of heavy welds. It migrates into the hot metal of a weld bead, collects at grain boundaries in the heat-affected zone, and under the combination of tensile stress, a hard microstructure and moisture, it opens cracks hours or even days after you have put the stinger down. This is why a structural weld can look perfect on Monday and show a hairline crack on Wednesday.

Low-hydrogen electrodes keep the hydrogen content of the deposited weld metal low enough to resist that damage, which is exactly why they dominate thick-section and code work. As the technical staff at Hobart Brothers note in their 7018 amperage guidance, the covering on these rods is deliberately thick and heavily loaded with iron powder and stabilizers — and that covering is also hygroscopic. It drinks moisture out of humid shop air.

This storage discipline is the single biggest difference between a 7018 user and a 7018 user who passes inspection. A welding procedure specification for pipe work will typically spell out storage and re-exposure limits in writing, and field crews carry rods in heated quivers for exactly the same reason.

E7018: The Structural Workhorse

E7018 runs on AC or DC power sources, deposits weld metal with a minimum tensile strength of 70,000 psi, and gives you excellent notch toughness — which is why it still performs when the job site is cold and the plate is thick. It welds carbon steel, high-carbon steel, low-alloy steel and high-strength steel, and it produces a smooth, quiet arc with very little spatter and medium penetration that is forgiving of moderate fit-up.

Technique is simple but non-negotiable: hold a short arc and drag steadily. Whipping the rod out of the puddle pulls shielding gases away from the molten metal and invites porosity, and rushing the crater at the end of a bead is a classic source of crater cracks. Fill the crater, keep the arc length to roughly the core wire diameter, and let the flux do its job.

If you want deeper numbers for the two most popular shop sizes, our dedicated guides on 3/32 E7018 amperage and 5/32 E7018 amperage walk through polarity, arc length and pass-by-pass settings in detail.

E7024: High-Deposition Speed for Flat and Horizontal Work

E7024 is the speed demon of the family, packed with even more iron powder so it lays down a lot of metal per pass with a deep, fluid puddle. The catch is baked into the classification: that heavy deposition only works against gravity. E7024 is restricted to flat and horizontal positions, and it performs best on plate at least 1/4 in. thick with decent joint prep. Think production shops welding long fillets and groove fills on a bench, where a steady drag with a slightly longer arc lets the rod essentially pour metal into the joint.

E7014: The Forgiving Middle Ground

E7014 also carries iron powder in the covering, so it welds faster and smoother than a plain 6013 while still being reasonably tolerant of light mill scale and surface rust. It runs well on AC or DC, works in all positions, and is a favorite for maintenance repairs where cleaning everything perfectly is not practical. The important caveat: 7014 is not a low-hydrogen electrode. It is fine for general fabrication and mild-steel repair, but do not substitute it for 7018 on structural, low-alloy or hardened-steel joints where toughness and crack resistance are specified.

Two final adjustments before you strike the arc. Drop your chart amperage by roughly 10–15 percent for vertical-up runs, because gravity is fighting the puddle, and reduce slightly again for overhead, as our overhead stick welding guide explains. Keep your travel angle consistent in the 10–15 degree drag range — for more on why dragging beats pushing with these rods, see travel angle welding technique. Get those two habits right and the 70 family will reward you with welds that look as good as they test.

Matching Electrode Diameter to Metal Thickness, Joint Design and Fit-Up

A chart can hand you a number, but the joint in front of you decides whether that number is actually right. Two pieces of 3/8-inch plate may call for completely different rods: one a clean square-butt fit-up, the other a quarter-inch gap with no bevel at all. This is where stick welders stop reading the chart and start reading the joint, and where most burn-throughs, cold-lap defects and cracked root passes are actually born.

Plate Thickness Comes Before Everything Else

The first thing to measure is the thickest member of the joint, then you pick a rod diameter that can fill it without dumping too much heat into it. The rule that never changes is this: thick materials need electrodes with maximum ductility and low hydrogen to prevent cracking, while thin materials need a soft arc and a small-diameter rod to avoid burn-through. A 1/4-inch 7018 on 20-gauge sheet is a hole-burning machine; a 1/16-inch 6013 on half-inch plate will never get the edges up to fusion temperature.

These are starting ranges, not commandments. Brand, weld position and the machine all shift them. For a deeper look at the thin end of that table, our stick welding thin metal guide covers amp settings and burn-through fixes in detail.

Fit-Up and Bevel: What the Gap Tells You

Once thickness is settled, look at how the parts actually sit together.

• Tight or unbeveled fit-up: you need a digging arc. E6010 and E6011 force their way into a tight root and burn out mill scale, rust and paint. Their deep, narrow profile is exactly what a zero-gap joint wants.
• Wide root opening: a soft, fluid arc bridges gaps better. E6012 and E6013 fill a wide opening and leave a concave face instead of sagging through. A concave profile is not a defect on a gap bridge, it keeps the face flat and the reinforcement controlled.
• Bevel angle: a standard 30-degree V (60 degrees included) on each side gives the rod room to reach the root. Go too narrow and you get lack of fusion on the sidewalls; go too wide and you burn filler metal for no benefit.
• Fit-up gaps you did not plan: bridge them with a smaller rod at slightly lower amps rather than turning the machine up to force a big rod across the opening.

Root Passes, Fill Passes and Multi-Pass Work

Deep groove welds are rarely a one-rod job. The common procedure is a cellulose rod like E6010 or E6011 for the root pass — fast-freezing, deep-penetrating and forgiving of poor fit-up — followed by fill and cap passes in a low-hydrogen electrode such as E7018. That combination gives you penetration where you need it and a clean, ductile cap where the strength matters. Our pipe welding procedures guide walks through this pass sequencing in more depth.

Every additional pass adds one more chance to trap slag. On multiple-pass welds, slag must be cleaned from every bead with a wire brush or grinder, because slag inclusions hide inside the weld and only show up later on X-ray inspection. If the second pass lands on uncleaned slag, the weld looks perfect on the surface and fails the radiograph.

Two more practical notes for the thin and heavy ends of the scale:

• Copper backing can reduce burn-through tendencies on thin material by acting as a heat sink behind the root. It is a legitimate trick on sheet, though it will not save you from amps that are simply too high. See our stick welding sheet metal guide for rod choice and blow-through prevention.
• Heavy sections demand low-hydrogen consumables and controlled heat input. When you move up to 3/16-inch and heavier rods, settings like 3/32 E7018 amperage and 5/32 E7018 amperage become the reference points you build a joint around.

One last variable: position. Overhead fillets and grooves force you down a rod size and roughly 10 percent off the chart amperage, because gravity works against the puddle. Our overhead stick welding guide covers 4F and 4G technique, and our note on push or pull stick welding explains how travel direction changes penetration when you switch from a flat butt joint to an out-of-position fillet.

Polarity, Arc Length and Machine Settings: Getting the Most from Your Chart

An amperage chart is only as honest as the machine feeding it. I’ve watched beginners line up a printed range, set their welder to match it, and still walk away with ugly beads. The chart wasn’t wrong; the polarity, calibration, or arc length was. This section closes that gap, because the difference between a chart that works and one that doesn’t comes down to four variables: polarity, machine accuracy, arc length, and position.

Start With Polarity: DCEN, DCEP, and AC

Polarity decides where the heat concentrates. On DC electrode negative (DCEN), the electrode stays the cooler terminal and roughly one-third of the arc heat lands in the workpiece. Flip it to DC electrode positive (DCEP) and roughly two-thirds of that heat sits in the electrode, producing the deeper, more forceful penetration that rods like E6010 and E7018 are built around.

• DCEP — deepest penetration and strongest arc force. The default for E6010, E7018, and most structural work.
• DCEN — softer, shallower penetration. E6012 likes it here, and the gentle profile helps when bridging gaps or running high-speed fillets on light steel.
• AC — swaps polarity 100-plus times per second. A workable compromise that covers E6011 and AC-rated 7018, and the practical answer on a job site running an engine-driven buzz box.

Your Machine Dial Is a Suggestion, Not a Measurement

The number printed on your amperage dial is rarely the number the electrode actually receives. Cheap rectifiers, worn sense resistors, long cable runs, and welding connectors with poor contact resistance can all shift output by 10 to 20 amps or more, and older machines drift further. Treat every chart value as a starting point, then verify it.

The 3/32-Inch Test Bead Method

The fastest calibration technique there is costs exactly one rod:

1. Cut scrap of the same thickness as your real work. Testing on thick junk while welding thin production steel teaches you nothing.
2. Set the machine to the low end of the chart range for your rod. That’s roughly 65 to 80 amps for 3/32 E7018, and 110 to 130 amps for 5/32. Our per-diameter breakdowns on 3/32 E7018 settings and 5/32 E7018 settings give you the full ranges.
3. Lay a two-inch bead at normal travel speed. Judge the bead, not the dial.
4. Ropey, high-humped bead with no wetting at the toes means you’re cold; add five amps. Heavy spatter, visible spitting, or a puddle that slumps faster than you can move means you’re hot; subtract five. Repeat until the bead lies flat with smooth, washed-in edges.

Three beads is usually all it takes to have a machine dialed in accurately.

Arc Length and Travel Speed: The Two Variables Charts Can’t Print

Keep arc length roughly equal to the electrode core wire diameter. An eighth-inch rod means an eighth-inch arc. Stretch it out and two destructive things happen at once: the heat spreads instead of focusing, and atmospheric nitrogen and oxygen wander into the shielding envelope. The low-hydrogen 7018 family is especially unforgiving here, and a long arc on 7018 is the number-one cause of porosity in structural welds.

Travel speed has to partner with amperage. Slow travel on hot settings piles up metal and eventually burns through. Fast travel on cold settings lays down a thin, under-fused bead that looks complete and fails anyway — the classic cold lap. For rod angle and drag-versus-push direction, see our complete travel angle welding guide and the accompanying push or pull technique breakdown.

Position Changes Everything

Every chart in this article assumes flat position, because that’s the reference condition. Out of position, gravity works against you. Vertical-up and overhead runs generally need 10 to 15 percent less amperage than the same rod in flat to keep the puddle from sagging. If flat calls for 130 amps on 1/8 E7018, expect around 110 to 120 going vertical-up. The same principle drives 4F and 4G overhead settings, where control beats penetration. On code pipe work, those adjustments stop being shop-floor guesses and become documented WPS variables.

Once polarity is right, the dial is verified by test bead, the arc is kept tight, and position adjustments are made, the chart stops being a reference sheet and starts behaving like a control panel. That’s the whole point: the numbers get you close, and these four adjustments get you exactly there.

Common Stick Welding Chart Mistakes and How to Fix Them

After spending years in the trade, one of the most frustrating sights is a welder with a brand new machine, a fresh box of rods and a perfect stick welding chart, yet their beads are still full of holes and globs. More often than not, the issue isn’t the equipment, but the small mistakes made when applying those chart numbers. To prevent hours of grinding, let’s break down the most frequent errors and how to correct them in real-time.

Running Your Rods Too Cold or Too Hot

The amperage range on your chart is by far the easiest setting to get wrong. High spatter paired with a loud, harsh arc is almost always a sign of running too hot. On the flip side, stubborn slag, cold lap, a wandering arc or rods that stick and refuse to restart typically mean you’re running too cold. Damp electrodes, especially E7018 rods, will amplify these cold-running issues tenfold.

The fix is simple: drop or raise your amperage in small increments. For thin materials, burn-through can be corrected by dropping a rod size, lowering amperage, or increasing travel speed. Before you lock into a setting for a job, run a quick test bead, paying special attention to the sound and slag peeling. This practice goes hand in hand with proper travel angle to prevent overheating the puddle.

Using The Wrong Rod For The Position

Not every electrode is built to defy gravity. Attempting to run a fast-fill rod flat in an overhead position is a recipe for drips and wasted material. This is one of the first hurdles covered when learning SMAW, as rod selection directly affects your success rate.

Refer back to the third digit of the AWS classification, which denotes position, and cross check it with your chart. When in doubt, stick to an all-position rod for out-of-position work, and avoid over-weaving, as an excessively wide weave will rob the puddle of its support when welding vertical or overhead.

Ignoring Rod Storage For Low-Hydrogen Electrodes

One of the costliest mistakes made on structural jobs is neglecting the storage of low-hydrogen rods. Porosity, cracking and inclusions are all common when these electrodes absorb moisture. Many manufacturers publish re-drying temperatures in their technical sheets, so never assume an old rod is still viable. OSHA’s welding, cutting and brazing standards also stress the importance of maintaining consumables to uphold structural integrity. Proper rod ovens, sealed containers and timely use will save far more money than replacing failed welds.

The Most Common Chart Errors At A Glance

With so many settings at play, the easiest way to troubleshoot is to match the symptom to its cause and fix. Use the table below as your in-field reference:

Final Takeaway

Your arc welding stick chart is a roadmap, not a law. By keeping your arc tight, respecting rod storage, matching your electrode to its position, and verifying your amperage against the sound of your arc, you’ll eliminate the majority of these mistakes. Take the extra minute to test, and you’ll spend far less time grinding. After all, the best welds aren’t rushed, they’re set correctly from the very first strike.

Stick Chart vs. MIG and TIG Settings Charts: When SMAW Is the Right (and Wrong) Choice

Every welding process speaks its own language on paper. A stick chart talks in electrode classes, diameters, and amperage ranges. A MIG parameter chart talks in wire feed speed and voltage. A TIG setup sheet centers on amps and tungsten size. Hand someone the wrong chart and the numbers mean nothing.

So the real question isn’t \”which process is best.\” It’s \”which process fits this job, in this place, with this budget?\” Here’s how to decide before you ever crack a settings sheet.

Wind, Weather and Working Outdoors

Stick welding is the outdoor champion. The flux coating on the electrode burns and generates its own shielding gas and slag, so the arc protects itself. Gas-shielded MIG and TIG have no such luxury. A breeze across the puddle strips the shielding gas away, leaving porosity, wormholes, and a weld that fails inspection. Manufacturers like Miller point out that flux coatings are exactly why stick electrodes tolerate drafty, dirty conditions.

Anyone who has welded a trailer in a gravel lot, a gate hinge in a pasture, or a pipe in an open trench knows the drill. You can’t tent a MIG gun against the wind and still see the joint. Stick just works.

Portability, Storage and the Repair Worker

Stick gear is generally the most portable and affordable entry point for beginners and repair work. A small inverter or engine-driven machine, a lead, a stinger, and a box of rods — done. Electrodes are sold in small quantities and are easy to store and transport, which makes them ideal for field repair and one-off jobs.

Try that with TIG. You’re hauling a cylinder, a flowmeter, a foot pedal you can’t use while lying on your back, and a water cooler if you’re pushing amps. Even MIG needs shielding gas unless you switch to flux-cored wire.

Speed, Learning Curve and Precision

Where MIG and TIG take over is output and finish. MIG typically offers faster deposition and an easier initial learning curve, so a beginner can lay a decent bead within an afternoon — see our guide on how to set up a MIG welder. TIG offers the highest precision and cosmetics, especially on thin material, which is why it rules bicycle frames and stainless work; our TIG welding sheet metal guide explains why.

Stick sits in the middle, leaning toward \”tougher to learn.\” If you’re wondering whether you have the patience for it, Is Stick Welding Hard? gives an honest answer. The payoff: stick handles thick, rusty, dirty steel that MIG would sputter on, and it never asks about gas coverage.

Side by Side: What Each Chart Actually Controls

What a Stick Chart Can and Cannot Do

The chart gives you a starting amperage for a given diameter and class. What it cannot give you is travel speed, arc length, your machine’s dial calibration, or the judgment to slow down on a vertical-up pass. A chart is a launch point, not a guarantee.

Cost Per Pound and the Bottom Line

Cost-per-pound of filler is where charts don’t help at all. MIG wire is cheap per pound and deposits fast, but gas, regulators, and liner maintenance add up. Stick electrodes cost more per pound and you lose the stub, but there’s no gas bill and the machine is cheaper up front. TIG filler is relatively cheap yet deposition is slow, so labor eats the savings.

For a one-off repair, stick usually wins on total cost. For a production run, MIG does. If you want one machine that touches both worlds, a MIG TIG combo welder is a real option — just don’t expect its chart to match your stick chart.

Choosing the Process, Then the Chart

Pick the process by environment, thickness, portability, and volume, then open the right chart:

• Windy, remote, dirty, or thick: stick, every time.
• Clean steel in a shop, production volume: MIG.
• Thin, precise, cosmetic, or exotic: TIG.

The arc welding stick chart earns its place on the wall because it answers a narrow, critical question: which electrode and how many amps. Respect it for that, and reach for a different chart the moment the job changes.

Safety, Ventilation and Best Practices When Using Your Stick Chart

Every number in this guide is useless if you arc up without respecting what stick welding actually throws at you: ultraviolet radiation, molten spatter, and a plume of fumes loaded with metallic oxides. The chart tells you what to dial in; this section tells you how to survive long enough to use it. Consider it the part of the wall-posted chart that never gets ignored in a good shop.

Eye Protection: Choosing the Right Lens Shade

Stick welding is the brightest of the common fusion processes, and the wrong lens shade is a fast track to arc flash, the welding equivalent of a sunburn on your corneas. OSHA’s 29 CFR 1910.252 includes a recommended filter lens shade table scaled to electrode diameter, and the logic is simple: bigger rod, higher amperage, darker lens. Common pairings look like this:

• 1/16 and 3/32-inch electrodes: shades 8 to 10
• 1/8-inch electrodes: shades 10 to 12
• 5/32-inch electrodes: shades 11 to 13
• 3/16, 7/32 and 1/4-inch electrodes: shades 12 to 14, with heavier shades for the higher end of the amperage range

Auto-darkening hoods are rated by shade range, so verify that your helmet’s adjustable window covers the range you actually run. For a deeper dive into the rest of the kit, see our complete welding PPE guide.

Ventilation: The Rule Most Home Shops Break

This is where the regulations get specific. OSHA 1910.252(b) requires welders to be protected either by local exhaust ventilation or by general mechanical ventilation sufficient to keep fumes, gases and dusts below the allowable concentrations listed in 29 CFR 1910.1000. On construction sites, OSHA 1926.353 goes further: mechanical ventilation is mandatory, and where local exhaust hoods are used, they must be positioned as close to the work as practical without interfering with the welding operation.

Every filler metal container carries a caution label stating that welding may produce fumes and gases hazardous to health, and it points to AWS/ANSI Z49.1, Safety in Welding, Cutting and Allied Processes. Read it as more than boilerplate. If a rod box warns you, believe the box.

Fire Prevention and Confined Spaces

OSHA references NFPA 51B for fire prevention during welding, cutting and brazing. A fire watch with a charged extinguisher is mandatory during the work and, under standard practice, for at least 30 minutes after the last arc is struck. Remove all combustibles within 35 feet, or shield what cannot move with fire-resistant blankets. Never weld on containers that held flammables without proper cleaning and testing, and never weld in a confined space without atmospheric testing, ventilation, and a trained attendant outside.

Confined spaces deserve their own warning: a tank or vault can hold an oxygen-deficient or explosive atmosphere even when it looks clean. Test before you strike, monitor continuously, and follow your site’s permit program. Related hazards like gas line welding codes and purging rules add another layer when the work touches pressurized systems.

Electrical, Thermal and Body Protection

Beyond the hood: flame-resistant jacket and sleeves, leather gloves rated for welding, safety-toe boots, and no synthetic fabrics that melt. Keep dry, inspect your electrode holder, cable insulation, and ground clamp for damage, and remember that damaged leads waste amperage and can shock you. Good cable connectors that seat tightly matter more than most welders think. Even small mistakes like weld burns on your arms are almost always preventable with correct sleeves and positioning.

Your Pre-Weld Action Checklist

1. Verify the electrode class and diameter against the job requirements before you power on.
2. Pull the manufacturer’s printed amperage range for that exact rod and brand. Treat it as the final authority over any chart, including this one.
3. Set polarity per the electrode specification. A 7018 run on the wrong polarity is a defective weld, not a preference.
4. Dial amperage to the chart midpoint, then run a 3/32-inch test bead on scrap of the same thickness and adjust.
5. Check lens shade, ventilation, fire watch, and extinguisher placement before striking the arc.
6. For low-hydrogen rods, confirm storage conditions. Anything exposed goes through a rod oven before use.

The Bottom Line

A stick chart is a starting point and a safety net, not a substitute for judgment. The welder who tapes it to the machine, reads it before every setup, and defers to the electrode manufacturer’s own specification sheet gets consistent beads, fewer defects, and far fewer bad afternoons. Pair these settings with correct travel angle technique, the right electrode for the job, and respect for the fumes and radiation, and you will get the results the chart promised. That is the whole point of keeping it on the wall.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is an arc welding stick chart?

An arc welding stick chart is a quick-reference table that matches stick (SMAW) electrode class and diameter to the recommended amperage range, polarity, welding position and metal thickness. It saves trial and error by giving you a proven starting point before you fine-tune on scrap.

What amps should I run a 1/8-inch 7018 rod at?

A 1/8-inch E7018 generally runs well between about 90 and 140 amps, depending on position and material thickness. Start near the middle of the range and adjust based on arc sound, puddle fluidity and bead profile.

How do I choose the right rod diameter for my metal thickness?

Match rod diameter to thickness: 3/32-inch rods suit thin sheet around 16–18 gauge, 1/8-inch rods cover the common 1/8 to 3/16-inch range, and 5/32-inch or larger rods handle 1/4-inch plate and heavier. Always verify against the electrode box’s printed range.

Can I use E6010 and E6011 rods interchangeably?

They are similar, but E6010 is DC-only while E6011 works on AC and DC. When substituting E6011 for E6010 on an AC machine, many procedures call for running about 10% higher current to compensate.

Why does my rod keep sticking to the workpiece?

Sticking is usually caused by amperage that is too low, an arc length that is too short or inconsistent, or a cold/damp electrode. Increase amperage slightly, maintain a steady arc gap and check rod storage conditions — especially for low-hydrogen E7018 rods.

Do different brands require different amperage settings?

Yes. Manufacturers use different flux formulations, so always treat the chart as a starting point and defer to the operating range printed on your specific electrode box. Test on scrap of the same thickness before welding the actual joint.

What happens if I run amperage too high or too low?

Too much amperage causes excessive spatter, a harsh loud arc, burn-through on thin metal and undercut. Too little amperage causes a wandering arc, cold lap, stubborn slag and weak penetration.

Is the stick chart different for vertical and overhead welding?

Yes — out-of-position welding generally requires reducing amperage by roughly 10–15% from flat-welding settings so the puddle stays controllable. The chart’s position column and the electrode’s third AWS digit both matter here.

What safety gear do I need when stick welding?

At minimum: a welding helmet with the correct filter shade for your electrode size, flame-resistant jacket and gloves, hearing and respiratory protection as needed, and adequate ventilation. OSHA 1910.252 requires ventilation to keep welding fumes below permissible exposure limits.