Stick Welding Process: The Complete Guide to SMAW for Strong, Clean Welds

What Is Stick Welding? The SMAW Process Explained

It’s 6 a.m. on a windy job site, and the MIG unit is useless — the shielding gas blows away before it reaches the puddle. An old welder hands you a stinger, a handful of E6010 rods, and says, “Just strike it.” A minute later you’re laying a root pass in the wind, on rusty steel, with nothing but an electrode and an arc. That rugged simplicity is why stick welding, formally called Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), has survived over a century and is still taught today.

Stick welding is an arc welding process that uses a consumable, flux-coated electrode — the “stick” — clamped into a holder. When the electrode touches the workpiece and pulls away, an electric arc jumps the gap, melting both the base metal and the electrode’s core wire. The melted metal forms a molten pool called the puddle, and as it cools it becomes the weld. The term “stick” is shop slang — the electrode is just a metal stick you burn up as you go.

The Core Components of a SMAW Setup

A stick rig is refreshingly minimal:

• Constant-current power source. A stick machine holds amperage steady even as arc length changes, keeping the arc stable.
• Electrode holder (stinger). Insulated jaws that grip the bare end of the rod and pass current into it.
• Work clamp and cable. Completes the circuit by grounding the workpiece. Good welding leads matter more than beginners realize.
• Flux-coated consumable electrode. The heart of the process — and the reason it works outdoors.

That flux coating isn’t cosmetic. It does three jobs at once: it burns off to create shielding gas that pushes air away from the arc, it forms slag that blankets and protects the cooling bead, and it can add alloying elements that improve the deposit’s strength and toughness. This self-shielding design is why stick welding needs no gas cylinder and shrugs off wind and dirt.

The Complete Arc Cycle in Plain English

Here’s what happens every time you lay a bead:

1. The electrode touches the work, shorting the circuit.
2. You lift slightly, and an arc forms across the gap.
3. Arc heat melts the core wire, which drips into the puddle and fuses with the base metal.
4. The flux coating vaporizes into shielding gas, protecting the molten metal from oxygen and nitrogen.
5. Leftover flux solidifies into slag over the cooling bead — you chip it off afterward.

Key Terms Every Beginner Meets

Arc is the electric discharge doing the melting. Puddle is the molten weld pool. Slag is the protective flux residue. Penetration is how deep the weld fuses into the base metal. Travel speed is how fast you move along the joint, and arc length is the gap between electrode tip and work. Mastering these controls is the whole game — so structured welding practice pays off quickly. Learn on steel first, and related processes like wire welding become far easier later.

A Century-Old Workhorse That Still Earns Its Keep

SMAW was invented in the early 1900s and dominated welding for much of the 20th century. Today it remains the go-to process for construction, pipeline, repair, structural steel, and maintenance work — especially for open-root pipe joints and field repairs where there’s no gas to blow away. OSHA’s welding safety guidance still treats it as a core industrial process for good reason.

Over the next sections, we’ll walk through how the arc works, the machines and leads you need, electrode classes like E6010 and E7018, polarity and amperage, technique, common mistakes, safety, and how SMAW compares to MIG, TIG, and flux-cored. By the end, you’ll know when to reach for the stinger — and how to run a clean, strong bead.

How Shielded Metal Arc Welding Actually Works (Step by Step)

Strip away the sparks and smoke and stick welding reveals a clean electrical story — the foundation that makes every later setting and technique finally click.

The Constant-Current Power Source

SMAW runs on a constant-current (drooping) characteristic, the opposite of the constant-voltage source feeding a MIG wire. That difference is the whole game. Your hand controls arc length, and that distance changes constantly as you travel. A drooping volt-ampere curve means modest voltage changes produce only small amperage shifts, so the arc holds steady instead of surging. This is why you can drag a rod from thick plate onto thin sheet and the current barely budges. Understand this once, and polarity, rod selection, and heat control all start making sense — the same technical bedrock solid welding practice is built on.

The Arc and Metal Transfer

The arc itself is a plasma column of ionized gas and metal vapor bridging electrode and work. It generates intense heat that melts the core wire, the flux, and a portion of the base metal, forming a molten weld pool. Metal crosses the gap in relatively large droplets — a globular transfer that gives stick welds their distinct, rippled look.

The Electrode: Core Wire Plus Flux

A stick electrode is two components in one. The core wire carries current and becomes filler metal. The flux coating does the chemistry: it burns to generate shielding gas, forms slag, and can add alloying elements or iron powder. Here’s the detail most people miss — the core wire melts faster than the surrounding flux, so a crater forms at the rod tip. That crater focuses the arc and helps direct the molten metal.

Shielding Gas and Slag

As the flux burns, it releases a protective gas cloud that keeps atmospheric oxygen and nitrogen out of the puddle. The molten flux then becomes slag that floats to the surface and keeps shielding as the weld cools. Slag is armor, not waste — but it has to be removed between passes. Leftover slag causes slag inclusions, one of the most common stick defects. That self-shielded approach is also why gasless flux-cored welding works in wind. Chip and wire-brush after every pass, no exceptions.

AC vs DC and Arc Blow

Direct current gives a steady, directional arc. Alternating current reverses direction many times per second, which suits certain electrodes and reduces arc blow. Arc blow is magnetic arc deflection caused by magnetic fields around the welding current. It shows up more with DC, especially near the end of a joint where the field grows unbalanced. On AC the arc extinguishes and restrikes each half-cycle, which can steady the puddle but makes some rods run roughly. Practical fixes: shorten the arc, drop the current, reposition the work-lead clamp, or change polarity — covered well in ESAB’s basics of polarity in stick welding. Polarity itself behaves much like it does in TIG welding.

The Step-by-Step Sequence

Here’s how the pieces come together in practice:

1. Prepare and clean the joint — remove rust, paint, oil, and mill scale from the weld zone.
2. Set the machine — choose polarity and amperage for your electrode diameter and metal thickness.
3. Clamp the work lead close to the joint — a short return path helps tame arc blow.
4. Strike and establish the arc — tap or scratch off, then lift to arc length.
5. Maintain arc length and travel — keep it roughly equal to the core-wire diameter. A short arc gives a stable frying-bacon sound; too long an arc buzzes, spatters, and loses shielding.
6. Break the arc cleanly — long-arc the rod back briefly to fill the crater, then lift away.
7. Chip and wire-brush — remove all slag before the next pass.

Master this sequence and everything else — settings, positions, troubleshooting — becomes tuning rather than guessing. It also gives you a baseline to diagnose problems later.

Stick Welding Equipment: Machines, Leads, and Accessories

You can spend thousands of dollars on a shop full of gear, or you can strike an arc with a $150 buzz box, a stinger, and two cables. That flexibility is the beauty of shielded metal arc welding (SMAW). But knowing which machine suits your work — and which accessories actually keep you safe, comfortable, and productive — saves money, prevents frustration, and helps you lay better beads from day one. Buying the wrong machine or skimping on leads usually costs more in the long run than getting the basics right the first time. What follows is the practical stick welding loadout, from the power source to the leads and the small hand tools that quietly decide whether a weld passes inspection or ends up in the scrap bin. Whether you’re outfitting a home garage, a farm repair truck, or a full job-site rig, these are the pieces that matter most.

Machine Types: Buzz Boxes, Inverters, and Engine Drives

The classic AC transformer “buzz box” is cheap, heavy, and nearly indestructible. It runs E6013, E6011, and E7024 fine, but generally can’t run E7018 or E6010 well because those electrodes need a stable DC arc. For most beginners, a 160–200 A DC inverter is the smarter first machine: it runs all DC electrodes, offers smoother arc control, and comes in a lighter box that’s easy to carry to a job. Inverter technology also holds a more stable arc at low amperage, which makes thin material and out-of-position work far less frustrating.

Engine-driven machines (gas or diesel) are the job-site workhorses — no outlet required, and many double as generators, so you can run a grinder or lights when the nearest receptacle is a quarter-mile away. They cost more and need fuel and regular maintenance, but for field work and pipeline welding there’s no real substitute. If you weld a mix of materials and want one machine instead of three, a multiprocess unit that handles stick plus MIG, TIG, or flux-cored is worth the premium.

Your power supply matters as much as the box itself. A small 120-volt machine is convenient but limited to around 80–90 amps, which is fine for 3/32-inch rods on light projects. A 240-volt machine gives you the headroom to run 1/8-inch and 5/32-inch electrodes all day. And most inverter welders won’t run reliably off a standard household generator unless it’s a clean, inverter-type unit — dirty power can damage the machine. Match the input to where you’ll actually plug in.

Polarity is another decision point. DCEN (straight polarity) drives more heat into the workpiece and is the go-to for most stick electrodes on thicker steel, while DCEP (reverse polarity) suits certain rods and thinner material. AC is a compromise that runs some electrodes well but struggles with others. A DC machine lets you switch, which is exactly why it’s the better long-term buy.

Duty Cycle: The Spec Buyers Ignore

Duty cycle is the percentage of a 10-minute period a machine can run at its rated current before it must cool. A 60% duty cycle at rated output means six minutes of welding and four minutes resting — every ten minutes, all day. Industrial machines commonly hit 60% at rated current, while hobby-tier machines are often 30–40%. Push a light machine hard at max amps and a thermal cutout will shut you down mid-bead — usually on the one joint you needed to finish before the customer arrived.

Also match maximum amperage to your electrode diameter. If you plan to run 1/8-inch E7018, you need a machine that comfortably delivers its 110–140 A range — check the amperage charts before you buy. If you branch into tungsten work later, our guide to TIG welding polarity explains why the same current behaves differently in a different process.

A high duty cycle isn’t just marketing — it tells you how the machine was built. Units rated for continuous industrial service use beefier transformers, better cooling, and heavier-duty components, which is why they weigh more and cost more. Duty cycle is also rated at a specific amperage and ambient temperature (often 104°F / 40°C), so a “200 A” machine might only deliver 200 A at a 20–30% duty cycle and settle near 150 A for continuous work. Reading the fine print tells you what you’re really buying.

The Stinger, Ground Clamp, and Cables

The electrode holder (stinger) grips the rod and insulates hundreds of amps from your hand, so a quality holder with tight jaws and an intact insulator is a safety item, not an afterthought. The work clamp and lead (the “ground”) complete the circuit; a weak clamp connection causes erratic arcs, overheating, and poor penetration. Size cables to your machine’s max output to avoid voltage drop and overheating — undersized leads weld hot, feel mushy, and waste power. For replacement or sizing help, see our walkthrough on quick connect welding leads.

Inspect cables and connections at the start of every session. A frayed jacket, a loose lug, or a clamp that’s barely biting is a fire and shock hazard, and it’s also the source of more mysterious “bad welds” than almost anything else. Keep spare lugs, connectors, and a wrench in your kit so a five-minute fix doesn’t end your day. Neat cable routing across the floor or overhead also cuts trip hazards and keeps the leads out of the sparks and molten spatter.

As a rule of thumb, cable gauge should grow with both amperage and length. A short 10-foot lead handles more current than a 50-foot run of the same gauge because resistance climbs with distance. Copper is the standard, and welding cable is finely stranded for flexibility and heat resistance — never substitute stiff building wire. Choose connectors that lock firmly and match your machine and stinger; cheap adapters are a common weak point that leads to intermittent contact and heat.

Accessories and Rod Storage

Keep a chipping hammer and wire brush beside you — SMAW leaves slag on every pass, and cleaning between beads is non-negotiable. Add a slag pick for stubborn flux in tight corners, a grinder for prep and cleanup, and proper PPE. A magnetic rod holder keeps the stinger off the table and stops accidental strikes, and a good set of leathers, gloves, and a welding helmet with the right shade protect you from spatter and UV. An auto-darkening lens makes starting arcs easier, while a respirator keeps you clear of manganese and hexavalent chromium fumes. Leather sleeves round out the kit, especially for overhead and out-of-position welds where sparks rain down.

Beyond low-hydrogen rods, storage is still worth a thought. Keep electrodes dry and off the floor; a simple rod quiver or sealed canister protects them on site. Wet or damaged flux on any electrode causes arc instability and porosity, so if a rod has been on a damp bench for a week, replace it rather than gamble. A cheap infrared thermometer also lets you confirm your holding oven is actually doing its job.

Finally, plan your layout before the first arc. Ventilation, fire protection, and cable routing are part of the equipment picture — our guide on how to plan and set up a safe shop covers that groundwork. Get the machine, leads, and storage right, and the stick process stays as rugged and reliable as that old welder promised at dawn.

Decoding Stick Electrodes: E6010, E6011, E6013, E7018, and E7024

Every number stamped on a stick electrode tells a story. Once you can read that code, picking a rod stops being guesswork and becomes a two-second decision. The rules come from AWS A5.1, the specification governing carbon steel covered electrodes, and makers like Hobart publish plain-English breakdowns. Here’s how to decode it without a reference book.

How the AWS A5.1 Numbering Works

Take E7018 and split it into four parts:

• E — electrode. The flux coating surrounds the core wire, and the rod itself carries the current.
• 70 — the first two digits are minimum tensile strength in ksi. So 70 means 70,000 psi (60 = 60 ksi, 100 = 100 ksi).
• 1 — the third digit is position: 1 = all positions, 2 = flat and horizontal only.
• 8 — the fourth digit is the flux coating type, which dictates current and penetration.

That fourth digit controls arc behavior far more than most beginners expect.

The Big Five (Plus) Stick Electrodes Compared

Cellulose Rods: E6010 and E6011

These two share a cellulose coating that burns to create shielding gas. E6010 runs on DCEP only and is famous for a deep-digging arc — the kind that cuts through mill scale, rust, and poor fit-up on an open root. If you only have AC power, reach for E6011, the potassium version that stabilizes the arc on alternating current. Pipe welders and repair crews live on these rods, and they’ll happily chew through dirty or galvanized steel.

Rutile and Iron-Powder Rods: E6013, E7014, E7024

E6012 and E6013 are rutile-coated: easy to strike, easy to restrike, with light penetration that suits clean sheet metal and nervous beginners. (E6012 bites a little deeper and runs on DC; E6013 is the smoother, more forgiving of the two.) E7014 adds iron powder for a smoother, higher-deposition arc that bridges gaps. E7024 packs in even more iron powder and lays metal down fast, but the third digit “2” means flat and horizontal only — try it overhead and you’ll wear the puddle.

Low-Hydrogen Workhorse: E7018

If you’re welding structural steel, E7018 is likely the rod your procedure calls for. Its low-hydrogen coating delivers good toughness and sharply reduces hydrogen-assisted cracking risk in thick or restrained joints. It runs on AC or DCEP and demands a clean arc — no dragging it through paint or heavy rust. AWS A5.1 limits vertical and overhead welding with E7018 to sizes 5/32 in (4.0 mm) and under, a limit worth remembering before you grab a fat rod for an overhead joint. For real-world numbers on the most common size, our 3/16 E7018 amperage guide walks through settings, polarity, and technique.

Suffixes: -1 and H4

Suffixes refine the core code. The “-1” in E7018-1 flags enhanced impact toughness at low temperature. “H4” means the coating delivers less than 4 ml of diffusible hydrogen per 100 g of weld metal, the mark of a genuinely low-hydrogen rod, while a trailing “R” indicates it passed a moisture-resistance test.

Always check the rod packet itself — not just the shelf label — and for critical work follow a qualified Welding Procedure Specification. Getting the electrode right is half the battle; the discipline of deliberate, repeated passes is the other, exactly the mindset we cover in our guide to welding practice.

Polarity and Amperage: The Settings That Make or Break a Bead

Two dials on a stick welder — polarity and amperage — control more of your weld quality than any technique tweak you will ever make. Set them wrong and even a steady hand lays a sputtering, porous bead. Set them right and the arc hums, the slag peels cleanly, and the puddle behaves.

The Three Polarities: DCEP, DCEN, and AC

Every stick electrode is engineered around a specific current type. Ignore that and you are fighting physics.

DCEP (electrode positive), often called reverse polarity, sends current from the work up into the electrode. That concentrates heat at the rod, producing deeper penetration and a wider, more fluid puddle — exactly why DCEP is standard for E6010 and preferred for many E7018 products. Our guide to polarity for flux-core welding follows the same principle: electrode-positive settings drive penetration.

DCEN (electrode negative, or straight polarity) reverses the flow. The work takes the heat and the electrode runs cooler, so penetration is shallower and deposition gentler — the design intent behind some E6013 and E7024 rods. Low-hydrogen electrodes are a different story; E7018 does not tolerate this polarity at all.

AC sits in the middle. Current reverses direction 60 times a second on a 60 Hz supply, giving penetration between DCEP and DCEN, and that reversal helps break up some forms of arc blow — the wandering arc that plagues DC welding on heavy or sharp-cornered steel. E6011 is one electrode that actually requires AC.

On most stick machines, changing polarity simply means swapping the electrode and work leads at the terminals. Confirm it against the electrode data sheet before you strike an arc — many beginners assume “reverse” is always wrong, when it is the default for the rods they are actually using.

Amperage: Charts and the 1-Amp Rule

Amperage is your heat control, and the simplest starting rule is about 1 amp per 0.001 inch of electrode core-wire diameter. A 1/8-inch rod (0.125 in) lands near 125 A. From there, charts narrow it down by rod type:

These are starting points, not gospel. Machine calibration, cable length, joint fit-up, and steel thickness all shift the sweet spot.

Then listen as you weld. A crisp, frying-bacon sound means amperage is close. A popping, sputtering arc with a stubby, red-hot rod tip says too much current; a sticky rod that keeps freezing to the plate says too little. Turn the dial 5 A at a time and weld a short bead before changing again.

Position Adjustments and the Rod Packet

Flat welding likes the upper end of the range — more heat means better fusion and a smoother bead. When you move to vertical-up or overhead, most welders drop amperage 10–15% below a proven flat setting. Lower heat lets the puddle freeze faster so gravity does not pull it out of the joint. High-deposition rods like E7024 are meant for flat and horizontal only, so there is no overhead setting to worry about.

Here is the rule that overrides all of them: follow the rod packet. The manufacturer’s range is built for that exact flux and core, and the package overrides any generic chart you find online. When you are dialing in a specific rod, our breakdown of 3/16 E7018 amperage, settings, and polarity walks through a real example.

Dial in polarity first, then amperage, then practice. Consistent repetition is what locks these settings into muscle memory, and our guide to building real welding skills shows how to structure that repetition. Get these two dials right and everything else — travel speed, arc length, work angle — gets dramatically easier.

Stick Welding Technique: Arc Length, Angles, and Welding Positions

Once your machine is dialed in and your rod is chosen, the weld is won or lost in your hands. Stick welding rewards muscle memory, and nobody lays a textbook bead on their first attempt. The good news: the technique breaks down into a handful of repeatable moves you can drill on scrap steel.

Arc Striking: Scratch vs. Tap Start

There are two ways to light the arc. Scratch start drags the electrode tip across the plate like striking a match, then lifts to arc length — gentle on both rod and plate, which is why it works for most electrodes. Tap start drops the tip straight down and pulls it back up; it’s faster for restarts but can leave a mark if you dawdle.

E7018 gets special treatment. Its low-hydrogen flux conducts poorly, so a light tap is far more reliable than a scratch — dragging it sideways just smears flux and fights the arc. Whatever method you use, strike inside the joint or on a scrap tab, never on the finished surface. A stray arc strike leaves a hard, brittle spot and a corrosion site that inspectors flag.

Arc Length: The One-Diameter Rule

Ideal arc length is roughly one core-wire diameter — the gap measured against the rod’s metal core, not its flux coating. Go shorter and the rod sticks or short-circuits. Go longer and shielding suffers, spatter flies, and the arc wanders. Let your ears gauge it: a steady, frying-bacon crackle means you’re in the sweet spot; a hollow hiss says too long; abrupt silence with a glowing red stub means you’ll soon be chipping it loose. Arc length and rod angle work together, so a long arc plus a steep drag angle pushes the puddle backward and starves the toes.

Travel Angle, Work Angle, and Speed

Keep a drag angle of about 10–15 degrees in the direction of travel, leaning the rod forward. For a butt joint, hold a 90-degree work angle to the plate; for a T-fillet, split the corner at 45 degrees so both legs heat evenly. Travel speed is the quiet variable that decides bead shape: ride the arc along the leading edge of the puddle. Let it creep backward and the arc falls into the molten pool, giving you a wide, convex bead with sloppy penetration control.

Welding Positions: Flat, Horizontal, Vertical, Overhead

Each position changes how gravity pulls your puddle and how you set your heat:

Flat is the easiest and fastest. Run amperage at the upper end of the rod’s range and travel at a comfortable pace for maximum deposition.

Horizontal sits between flat and vertical. Use mid-range amperage and a slight upward push so the puddle freezes before it sags.

Vertical-up separates the welders from the rest. Lower the amperage, keep a short arc, and run either a tight stringer or a J-weave/C-weave with a brief pause at each toe — that pause ties in the edges and prevents undercut. Move steadily between pauses; stopping too long burns through, and over-weaving pumps in excess heat.

Vertical-down runs hot and fast at lighter amperage and is reserved mainly for sheet metal and rods like E6010 or E6011. Penetration is shallow, so don’t trust it on heavy sections — and keep the rod angled slightly down, because hesitation digs a gouge that’s hard to fill.

Overhead fights gravity hardest. Hold the smallest practical puddle you can, a short arc, and almost no weave. Molten metal wants to fall, so keep the pool tight and the travel steady so it freezes before it reaches you — and check your helmet and gloves, because spatter overhead finds every gap.

Arc length, angles, and position changes only become automatic through deliberate repetition. Our guide to welding practice shows how to structure sessions so your hands actually improve — and if you’re dialing in a low-hydrogen rod, start with our 3/16 E7018 amperage and technique guide.

Common Stick Welding Mistakes and How to Fix Them

After hours of practice, nothing is more frustrating than a bead that looks rough when it should be solid. The overlap welding defect is just one of many issues that can creep in, but most stick welding problems share the same root causes. With a few checks, they are easy to correct.

Striking and Arc Control

One of the first hurdles for beginners is getting the arc going. If your rod sticks to the work, you are likely running too little amperage or holding an arc that is far too short. The fix is to bump your amperage slightly and practice a controlled tap or scratch strike. If you cannot strike at all, check for a damp rod or a dirty work clamp contact. A quick scrape of the clamp jaws and a dry electrode will often solve it.

Once the arc is lit, length matters. An arc that is too long will throw excessive spatter, while one that is too tight can cause the rod to freeze. As a general rule, keep your arc length close to the diameter of the electrode. A uniform spike in spatter is often a sign that your arc has lengthened without you realizing it, so tighten it before raising amperage. These small adjustments go a long way, and they are the same habits you will build when following a structured welding practice routine.

Fusion, Slag, and Porosity

A smooth bead means little if it lacks fusion. If your weld sits on top of the metal rather than tying into it, the most common culprits are traveling too fast, running amperage too low, or skipping joint prep. Take a moment to bevel tight joints and clean mill scale, oil, paint, and rust. Fit-up will always matter more than the dial.

Slag inclusions are another silent failure. When slag is trapped between passes or beneath the bead, it weakens the joint. This usually comes from poor manipulation or failing to clean between passes. Chip and brush thoroughly before laying the next bead, especially on multi-pass work.

Porosity is often blamed on the machine, but moisture in the flux coating and contaminated base metal are leading causes. Keep your work clean, and never weld over wet or oily surfaces. For safety context on airborne hazards tied to welding fumes, refer to guidance from the NIOSH welding program and the OSHA welding, cutting, and brazing standards.

Heat Control and Arc Blow

Too much heat at the toes can lead to undercut, leaving a groove that becomes a stress point. If you see this, try a slight change in work angle, slow your travel just enough to fill the toe, or drop your amperage. Conversely, if you are burning through thin stock, shorten your arc and use a smaller electrode. These are the same precision checks that matter when dialing in settings like 3/16 E7018 amperage for a specific joint.

Few issues are as maddening as arc blow. This is the magnetic deflection of the arc, and it is far more common on DC than AC. To combat it, switch to AC if your machine allows, shorten the arc, relocate the work clamp to a different point on the workpiece, or wrap the work lead to counter the magnetic field. If you are comparing power sources, our guide on TIG welding polarity can help clarify how DC and AC behave.

Final Checks Before You Weld

Before striking your next bead, run through a quick checklist. Clean the joint, confirm your electrode is dry and correct for the task, verify your leads and clamp have solid contact, and test amperage on scrap. A well-planned welding facilities setup will make these checks second nature.

Most importantly, do not chase the dial. If a setting worked yesterday but fails today, look to your prep, travel, and arc length first. Correct those three, and nine times out of ten, the bead will come back to life.

Stick Welding Safety: Fumes, Cr(VI), Manganese, and PPE

That stinger feels simple in your hand, but what comes off the arc is anything but. Welding fume is a complex cocktail of metal oxides and gases, and its recipe shifts with the process, the base metal, the filler, any coatings, and the location. Stick welding is notorious for it because the flux coating burns into a visible plume right in front of your face.

What’s Actually in the Fume

The composition depends entirely on what you’re welding and where. Stick electrodes add flux-derived compounds to the mix, galvanized or painted steel can release zinc and lead, and confined spaces let gases build to dangerous levels. That variability is why there’s no single “safe” fume number — every job needs its own assessment.

The metals in that plume commonly include iron, manganese, chromium, nickel, and lead; the gas fraction can carry carbon monoxide, ozone, and nitrogen oxides. Indoors, in a tank, or in a confined space those gases concentrate fast. NIOSH treats welding fume as a carcinogen and recommends keeping exposure as low as feasible — “I can’t smell it” is not a safety plan.

Chromium and Manganese: The Two Biggest Concerns

Stainless steel welding is the headline risk. Chromium in the alloy and electrode converts to the toxic hexavalent state during welding, making stainless a major source of Cr(VI) exposure, and the World Health Organization’s International Agency for Research on Cancer classifies hexavalent chromium as a Group 1 human carcinogen — the highest hazard category. OSHA regulates it at a permissible exposure limit (PEL) of 5 µg/m³ as an 8-hour time-weighted average under 29 CFR 1910.1026 for general industry and 29 CFR 1926.1126 for construction. NIOSH proposes an even stricter recommended exposure limit of 0.2 µg/m³. An estimated 558,000 U.S. workers are exposed to airborne Cr(VI), with carbon and stainless steel welders among the largest groups.

Manganese is the quieter hazard. Long-term exposure is associated with neurological effects including mood and memory changes and Parkinson’s-like symptoms, and it enters the body mainly through inhalation. Symptoms can take years to develop, which makes consistent controls more important than one-off caution. ACGIH’s threshold limit values are 0.02 mg/m³ respirable and 0.1 mg/m³ inhalable — low numbers that ordinary welding easily exceeds without controls.

Engineering Controls Come First

Respirators are the last line of defense, not the first. Exhaust the fume at the source before you strap one on. Local exhaust ventilation (LEV) — a fume-extraction gun or a hood at the arc — is the gold standard, and OSHA’s welding safety guidance puts engineering controls at the top of that hierarchy.

Layer in general ventilation, position yourself upwind, and keep your head out of the plume. Substitute when you can: a lower-manganese electrode or a different process may cut exposure at the source. Good shop layout and airflow make all of this easier, as we cover in our guide to planning and setting up a safe welding shop.

PPE That Actually Protects You

For typical stick currents, an auto-darkening helmet set to shade 10–11 shields your eyes, with safety glasses underneath catching spatter from below. Leather gauntlet gloves and a flame-resistant leather jacket are non-negotiable against spatter, and steel-toe boots protect against dropped steel and rolling slag. Hearing protection matters too, since slag popping and arc noise add up over a shift. Eye protection deserves its own deep dive, covered in Protective Eyewear for Welding, and the more efficient your technique becomes with regular welding practice, the less time you spend breathing the plume.

Fire and Burn Hazards

Stick welding throws molten spatter and hot slag that can travel surprising distances and land glowing in a boot, a glove cuff, or a scrap pile. Clear combustibles from the area, set up a fire watch, keep an extinguisher within reach, and never weld on sealed drums or coated metal without knowing what’s burning off. A welding blanket under the work catches slag, and fire-resistant sleeves save forearms. Hot slag can hide in cracks and reignite minutes later, so always do a final sweep after the sparks stop. Spatter burns are the most common stick injury — and the most preventable.

Stick Welding vs MIG, TIG, and Flux-Cored: When to Choose SMAW

Every process is a trade-off, and choosing starts with three questions: where are you welding, how clean is the metal, and how much speed do you need? Stick (SMAW) wins on toughness and portability; wire-feed and TIG win on speed and appearance. Here’s how they stack up side by side.

Stick’s defining advantage is that it needs no external shielding gas, so it shrugs off wind that would wreck MIG’s gas coverage. Self-shielded flux-cored (FCAW-S) is the other gasless outdoor option and gives higher deposition with a wire-feed feel — our guide to gasless MIG welding explains how that works. For indoor, high-volume work, wire processes usually win; see how to use a wire welder if you’re making the switch.

Deposition Rate, Cost, and Skill Curve

SMAW deposits metal more slowly than wire-feed — you stop to change rods and chip slag — but a basic AC stick machine and stinger cost far less than a full MIG or TIG setup, and the whole kit fits in a truck. MIG and flux-cored lay down more metal per hour, while TIG is slowest of all but delivers the greatest control and cleanest beads — at the price of meticulous surface prep and a steady hand. Polarity matters here, too, as our TIG polarity guide covers. Skill-wise, stick is forgiving once you can strike and hold an arc, while wire-feed rewards setup knowledge.

Portability and Cost of Entry

A stick machine is the most portable serious welder you can own: a small inverter or engine-driven unit, two leads, and a stinger, and you’re welding anywhere. That low barrier is why it’s the default for farm repair, pipe yards, and remote sites. Wire-feed rigs are heavier and need gas cylinders or spools of self-shielded wire, while TIG adds a torch, gas, and filler. For one-off jobs, that simplicity is hard to beat.

The Classic Pipeline Sequence

On pipelines, welders run cellulosic E6010 for the root pass — it digs deep and tolerates mill scale and dirt — then switch to low-hydrogen E7018 for fill and cap passes for toughness and crack resistance. That pairing is a masterclass in why SMAW endures: it does hard, dirty, high-integrity work in the field. Lincoln Electric’s AWS electrode classifications and Hobart’s advice on choosing the right stick electrode are worth bookmarking.

When SMAW Is the Smart Choice

Reach for stick when you’re repairing equipment in the field, welding rusty or painted steel, running structural steel outdoors, laying pipeline roots, or doing maintenance where a portable machine is all you have. For structural steel outdoors, its wind tolerance and code acceptance keep SMAW a first choice. Choose gas-shielded MIG or flux-cored in a sheltered shop when you’re chasing production speed, and TIG when thin gauge, aluminum, or code-critical cosmetic welds demand maximum control. Neither process is universally better — the job decides.

Practical Tips, a Beginner Practice Plan, and Final Thoughts

Stick welding rewards patience far more than it rewards expensive gear. The machine you own can certainly help, but the hand holding the stinger is what ultimately decides whether a bead will hold under load or fail when it matters most. With a little discipline, even the most hesitant first attempt can be shaped into a skill that is both repeatable and reliable for years to come.

A Starter Practice Plan

For your first few hours at the stinger, simplicity should be your priority. Start with E6013 at 1/8″ running roughly 100–125 A on clean 1/4″ scrap plate in the flat position. This combination is one of the most forgiving for beginners, as it strikes easily and tolerates minor technique errors without punishing small mistakes with immediate burn-through or excessive spatter.

1. Run pads of beads. Lay down overlapping parallel stringers across the entire plate. Focus on keeping your arc length short, your travel speed steady, and your bead width consistent. Do not move on until the ripples begin to look uniform from end to end.
2. Move to T-joints and fillets. These joints are some of the most common in repair and fabrication work. Pay close attention to your work angle, electrode angle, and arc length, as small shifts here will be far more noticeable than they were on a flat pad.
3. Add vertical-up, then overhead. Only attempt these positions once your flat beads are steady with little to no correction between passes. They require more control, but they become manageable once your muscle memory is built.
4. Progress to E7018. Once your angles and travel speed hold without constant adjustment, transition to 1/8″ E7018 at about 110–130 A on DCEP. Always stay within the manufacturer’s published range for the rod you are using, as low-hydrogen electrodes demand more care than E6013.

For a deeper progression with more positions and time-based goals, see our guide on welding practice and building real skills.

Maintenance and Workflow Habits

Technique will get you a good bead, but consistent habits are what will keep your work safe, clean, and code-ready. These are the small actions that separate hobby welds from production welds:

• Keep electrodes dry. Store E7018 in a properly maintained rod oven. Moisture is one of the quickest ways to ruin low-hydrogen performance and introduce hydrogen-related cracking.
• Clean the work clamp contact point. A poor ground creates arc wander, inconsistent heat, and frustrating starts. A little wire brushing at the clamp goes a long way.
• Use the correct polarity. DCEP, DCEN, and AC all behave very differently, and choosing the wrong one can ruin an otherwise sound setup. Take the time to learn the basics of polarity in stick welding early in your practice.
• Test on matching scrap. Never dial in settings for the first time on a finished or expensive piece. Test on the same thickness and material first to avoid costly mistakes.
• Change settings in 5–10 amp steps. Large jumps make it difficult to tell what fixed the problem. Small adjustments are the safest and fastest path to a dialed-in arc.
• Chip and brush every bit of slag. Between passes, remove all slag and any visible inclusions. This is one of the highest-value habits a stick welder can build for both strength and appearance.
• Inspect with a flashlight. View your welds at a low angle with a bright light to catch porosity, undercut, or overlap defects that are easy to miss head-on.

Final Thoughts

That classic image says it all: no gas, no spool, just a stinger and a rod — and a weld that holds. Stick welding is the foundation that many welders build everything else on, from pipeline work to heavy fabrication and everyday repairs. Learn to read the arc, control your angle, and respect the process, and you will carry a skill that is still very much in demand. The machine is simple; the craftsman is what makes it sing. Strike an arc, run your pads, and keep practicing — that is more than enough to get started.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does ‘stick welding’ actually mean?

Stick welding is the common name for Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW). The ‘stick’ is a consumable flux-coated electrode clamped into an electrode holder. The arc melts the electrode core wire and the base metal at the same time, while the flux creates shielding gas and a protective slag layer.

What polarity should I use for stick welding?

It depends on the electrode. E6010 requires DCEP (electrode positive), E6011 runs on AC or DCEP, E6013 usually runs on AC or either DC polarity, and E7018 generally prefers DCEP with some AC-capable versions available. Always check the electrode packet, because polarity affects penetration, arc stability, and weld quality.

What amperage should I use for a 1/8-inch stick electrode?

It varies by rod type: a 1/8′ E6013 typically runs around 80-130 A, a 1/8′ E6010 around 75-130 A on DCEP, and a 1/8′ E7018 around 110-165 A. Start near the middle of the manufacturer’s range for flat work and reduce by about 10-15% for vertical-up and overhead positions.

Which is easier for beginners, E6013 or E7018?

E6013 is generally easier to start with because it strikes easily, has a soft arc, and tolerates minor mistakes. E7018 produces higher-quality, low-hydrogen welds but rewards a tight arc, clean steel, and correct dry storage. Many welders learn on E6013 and then move to E7018.

Why does my stick electrode keep sticking to the metal?

The most common causes are amperage set too low, an arc length that is too short, or trying to restart on a cold crater. Increase the amperage slightly in 5-10 amp steps, maintain an arc length near one core-wire diameter, and clean the crater before restarting.

What causes porosity in a stick weld?

Porosity is usually caused by moisture in the flux coating, contaminated base metal, or an arc length that is too long. Re-bake low-hydrogen electrodes as the manufacturer specifies, clean oil, paint, and rust from the joint, and shorten the arc.

Is stick welding dangerous? What are the main safety concerns?

The main hazards are welding fume, arc radiation, burns from spatter and hot slag, electric shock, and fire. Fume from stainless steel contains hexavalent chromium, a known carcinogen regulated by OSHA, and manganese fume is linked to neurological effects. Use local exhaust ventilation, work upwind, and wear proper PPE including a shade-appropriate helmet.

Can you stick weld outdoors or in the wind?

Yes — that is one of stick welding’s biggest advantages. Because the flux coating generates its own shielding gas, SMAW is far more wind-tolerant than MIG or TIG, which depend on external gas coverage. This is why SMAW remains a standard choice for field and pipeline work.

Do I need to remove slag between passes?

Absolutely. The slag blanket protects the cooling weld, but if it is not fully chipped and wire-brushed away before the next pass, it becomes trapped and creates slag inclusions — a common defect that weakens the weld. Clean thoroughly between every pass.

What is the best first stick welder for a beginner?

A 160-200 A DC inverter welder is a popular first choice because it runs all DC electrodes, offers smoother arc control, and is portable. If budget is tight, an AC-only machine will still run E6013 and E6011, but it cannot properly run E7018 or most E6010.

Authoritative Sources & Further Reading

• https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/publications/OSHA_FS-3647_WELDING.pdf
• https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/welding/about/index.html
• https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2013-128/pdfs/2013_128.pdf
• https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/regulations/standardnumber/1910/1910.1026
• https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/regulations/standardnumber/1910/1910.254
• https://www.osha.gov/welding-cutting-brazing
• https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en/Welding-and-Cutting-Resource-Center/Process-and-Theory/AWS-Classifications
• https://www.hobartbrothers.com/resources/technical-articles/electrode-classification/
• https://www.hobartbrothers.com/resources/technical-articles/choosing-the-right-stick-electrode-for-the-job/
• https://www.esab.com/us/nam_en/esab-university/articles/polarity-in-stick-welding-the-basics-for-beginners/
• https://www.aws.org/